Valve cover gasket

[bfrey003]

okay, somebody please help me.

i need to replace the valve cover gasket as it is leaking and dripping on to the timing belt which the auto shop said could cause it to break. They estimated it would cost about $250 (i had another shop quote me $135 - 10% student discount). I cant see spending that much to replace a $10.00 part.

it seems to be in a very accessible place so i wanted to know how hard is this and if anyone had a write up of this??

thanks a bunch

[CalAltaDubber]

It's not hard to replace at all. You need to disconnect the throttle cable, connected hoses, and remove the top timing belt cover.

Just make sure that you clean out all the "bits" of old gasket.

If you upgrade to the one piece gasket, you will have to replace the studs to mount the valve cover. They would be part of the kit.

The standard two piece gaskets do have a tendency to leak.

The next big question is: do you know when the timing belt was changed?

If you don't, I would suggest planning to do it. Again, it is something fairly easy to do. The big cost there is the belt and tensioner.

[Briano1234]

The kicker is to buy the upgraded Gasket kit from German autoparts.
The 90-93 gasket is covered:
How to remove and replace Valve cover Gasket
90-93 cabby Automatic shown no Cruise.

The Better Gasket is from Victor-Reinz
It is for a 1990 VW Corrado 1.8L 8V engine
Victor Reinz number 71-31692-00
VW 037-103-483c

It is the Valve cover Upgrade from German Auto Parts that is metal re-enforced. Now you know the main part number you can probably source it locally.

You will need 8 -non-shouldered studs if you are going to use that gasket.


If you have a Upper Sway bar you will need to remove
it.

Slide the keeper off the Accelerator cable.



Loosen the Jam nut and Slide the cable assembly et all off the
valve cover.



Carefully place it to the side.



Remove the hose clamps that hold the Vacuum lines to the Throttle
Body.





Use a Screw driver to pry the hoses off.


Pull them off Gently....

Be VERY, Very careful of the hard plastic brake line at all times.



Remove the connector off the ISV



Pry the ISV Rubber Donut Holder off the Bracket remove the ISV



Remove the Timing Cover.



Remove the 6mm Allen from the Bracket.



Remove the 10mm bolt from the valve cover top.






Remove the pvc cap from the Valve Cover, and the Main Air Intake Rubber Boot.




Remove the 8 10mm nut and washers holding the Valve Cover down.

Remove the Fan Thermo switch, and o2 Sensor plate.







Gently Pry the Valve Cover off the Head. I usually use a flatblade like a
bottle opener at the front.

Here is the oil blow by...



A loose Stud was the culprit.



To replace the stud by hand.


Place a washer on it to prevent the head from scratches


Tighten with a pair of Mini-Vice Grips clamped as low as you can go.

Now lets turn our attention over to the Valve Cover:

Clean that



I use Cheap Oven Cleaner Sprayed Well and allowed to set for a hour.






While that is setting. Clean the top of the head surface with Acetone and Qtips
Cleanliness is a must.




After a light scrubbing with a Brush. Wash the cover with water. Be sure to
flush the vent screen Both from the top and the bottom
till the water runs out clean.

Dry with a rag, now Spray Brake Kleener to evaporate the water and finish removing any crud.
I then use a Shop vac to draw air through the Screen to get all the fumes and
any excess moisture out of the vent.



When replacing the Gasket if it doesn't go down easily use a 8mm deepwell
over the studs to get it to lay flat.





Clean the Brackets of Crud for the Thermo-Switch for the fan, as you want a good ground
Same for the o2 Sensor bracket.

Replace the Valve Cover.

Replace the Brackets for the Thermo-Switch, and the o2 sensor

Thermo-switch to the second stud from right side rear, o2 on the rear back corner.

Replace the Timing Cover plate.

Replace the Steel reinforcement straps, The pointy end goes to the Drivers Side.

Place washers on all the studs (Thermo-switch, o2 plate and Timing cover
Goes on First).

Place the nuts on the studs, and drive them tight.

Using a in/lbs torque wrench tighten the nuts to 87 Inch pounds.



I do a zig zag pattern starting on the front, skip then the back...
so that the Cover goes down squarely.

Replace the Vacuum hoses and such in the opposite order of removal.

[bfrey003]

a shop had previously said to, but i was looking at generic how-to videos for belt replacement and they showed what an old belt looked like and mine looks new in comparison. i also had a shop check things yesterday morning and they didnt list it as one of the recommended thigns. at the same time tho, i dont want to be driving and it snap. so if it's easy i dont mind doing it. i should probably replace all the belts at the same time.

phase 1 is getting things back up to par before i go to phase 2 - performance, lol

[bfrey003]

awesome. thanks brian

[kamzcab86]

They estimated it would cost about $250

Dude... I need to get into the auto repair business!

Definitely a DIY job. And if you have a CIS car, there's even less crap to have to move out of the way than those Digifants, as Brian's pics show. All you have to do disconnect, as Phil said, the throttle cable, cruise control stuff if you have it, upper belt cover (caution: that mounting bolt can be a PITA... ask me how I know; hopefully, yours won't be, or better yet you might have the plastic cover). Removing the hoses will make it a bit easier to work in the space, but it's not required.