As William knows I have been replacing the head gasket in my Blue Bunny.
I finally got it half assed running, but there is a puzzlement.
I set the time at tdc, and marked everything before removing the head.
I replaced the head and checked time it was exactly on the marks.
dimple on the cam at the top edge of the valve cover, the tranny at tdc, and the number one piston was fully up. The Dist was at the notch.
I fired it up and it had erratic idle, and pinging and knocking. I reset the Time and the car started but ran ruff. I cleared the ECU and at 2250 with the blue CTS unplugged it was at 6 dtdc.
I have unplugged the o2 and it appears to be running better. So what to do, besides replace that damn thing. I did notice that it is apparently running rich when the damn thing is plugged in.
Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.
dam nits...........
Moderators: kamzcab86, CalAltaDubber
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Briano1234
- Whats that smell?
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dam nits...........
Briano
Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click....
Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click....
nits....
Brian,
Read over the O2 sensor testing on the bottom of Kammy's CIS duty cycle adjustment page,
http://dana.ucc.nau.edu/~kaw5/CISidle.htm#Before
Just ignore references to duty cycle, that part obviously doesn't apply.
The voltage ranges should be the same as the system corrects injector pulse width to compensate for the forced, false (+1.5 VDC and ground) input signals. Be quick with your readings, DigiFant is adaptive.
Especially note the 2nd to last paragraph, I did a whole lot of head banging at Audi's expense figuring that one out. Warrantied lots of O2 sensors failed as described due to the use of penetrating oil on them during removal for warped manifold/snapped stud repairs on 5 cyl motors.
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Oh, and check the crank gear, you know the one.
Ron
Read over the O2 sensor testing on the bottom of Kammy's CIS duty cycle adjustment page,
http://dana.ucc.nau.edu/~kaw5/CISidle.htm#Before
Just ignore references to duty cycle, that part obviously doesn't apply.
The voltage ranges should be the same as the system corrects injector pulse width to compensate for the forced, false (+1.5 VDC and ground) input signals. Be quick with your readings, DigiFant is adaptive.
Especially note the 2nd to last paragraph, I did a whole lot of head banging at Audi's expense figuring that one out. Warrantied lots of O2 sensors failed as described due to the use of penetrating oil on them during removal for warped manifold/snapped stud repairs on 5 cyl motors.
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Oh, and check the crank gear, you know the one.
Ron
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Briano1234
- Whats that smell?
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- Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 5:45 am
- What year is your cabby?: 1992
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- Location: Duluth, Ga
- Contact:
Re: nits....
Do I know the one? LOLOLL that is one of the first things I checked, but you got the nail right I probably have a pb-blaster soaked o2, as I separated the down pipe off the manifold and removed the head with the manifold on so I had forgot that I had soaked the nuts for 2 days before removing them.....tolusina wrote:Brian,
Read over the O2 sensor testing on the bottom of Kammy's CIS duty cycle adjustment page,
http://dana.ucc.nau.edu/~kaw5/CISidle.htm#Before
Just ignore references to duty cycle, that part obviously doesn't apply.
The voltage ranges should be the same as the system corrects injector pulse width to compensate for the forced, false (+1.5 VDC and ground) input signals. Be quick with your readings, DigiFant is adaptive.
Especially note the 2nd to last paragraph, I did a whole lot of head banging at Audi's expense figuring that one out. Warrantied lots of O2 sensors failed as described due to the use of penetrating oil on them during removal for warped manifold/snapped stud repairs on 5 cyl motors.
---
Oh, and check the crank gear, you know the one.
Ron
It is just one of them things, correct one issue and break 3 more
Briano
Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click....
Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click....
pinging nits...
Brian,
Pinging can also be aggravated by too hot intake air.
Check that the hoses to and from the thermo-valve that controls the thermostatically controlled flapper valve on the air cleaner are connected correctly.
The vacuum source hose from the intake manifold should be connected to the side of the thermo-valve that's closed when warm.
The connection to the flapper valve itself should be open to vent when warm.
Ron
Pinging can also be aggravated by too hot intake air.
Check that the hoses to and from the thermo-valve that controls the thermostatically controlled flapper valve on the air cleaner are connected correctly.
The vacuum source hose from the intake manifold should be connected to the side of the thermo-valve that's closed when warm.
The connection to the flapper valve itself should be open to vent when warm.
Ron
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Briano1234
- Whats that smell?
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I went and bought a 3 wire replacement 40 bucks, good to go. reset the time and it is running pretty sweet
I the ram air that I have routed to improve the air flow to the Starter.
On;y time will tell if it improves the starter life. I ran it to the right of the HI-Beam inf ront of the condenser
I the ram air that I have routed to improve the air flow to the Starter.
On;y time will tell if it improves the starter life. I ran it to the right of the HI-Beam inf ront of the condenser
Briano
Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click....
Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click....
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Briano1234
- Whats that smell?
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- Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 5:45 am
- What year is your cabby?: 1992
- Do you own a Cabriolet?: No
- Location: Duluth, Ga
- Contact:
Dam It runs like a dog, I got it on time, absolutely rock hard. but it acts like it is retarded, boggy at speed. I think it may be a air leak at the manifold, but I can't finger it out. The new o2 fixed a lot of the issues, and oh btw it came out really easy So now I have to track down the problem.
Any suggestions accepted.
I verified that the number one Cyl was at TDC, and the Cam was at the ot mark and the dimple was at the valve cover.
the dist was right at the notch.
This is why I am thinking it may be an air leak.
So now I have to track down the problem. Any suggestions accepted.
I verified that the number one Cyl was at TDC, and the Cam was at the ot mark and the dimple was at the valve cover.
the dist was right at the notch.
This is why I am thinking it may be an air leak.
Briano
Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click....
Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click....
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Calimus
- Grand High PooBah
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Did you remember to adjust the new throttle cable? If you left an ass load of slack in it, that would account for it running like ass. 
Just kidding. No chance of you missing something that easy. Check your vacc lines and tighten anything you can find. Hopefully you didn't leave that extansion in the fuel line, that could cause a nasty blockage.
If all else fails, just blame me since I was there and I touched the car.
Just kidding. No chance of you missing something that easy. Check your vacc lines and tighten anything you can find. Hopefully you didn't leave that extansion in the fuel line, that could cause a nasty blockage.
If all else fails, just blame me since I was there and I touched the car.
16' Challenger ScatPack
05' Yamaha FJR1300
02' Honda VTX 1800C
05' Yamaha FJR1300
02' Honda VTX 1800C
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Briano1234
- Whats that smell?
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- Location: Duluth, Ga
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Yes I am blaming you... it is all your fault, you shoudl of called me and warned me about that extensionCalimus wrote:Did you remember to adjust the new throttle cable? If you left an ass load of slack in it, that would account for it running like ass.
Just kidding. No chance of you missing something that easy. Check your vacc lines and tighten anything you can find. Hopefully you didn't leave that extansion in the fuel line, that could cause a nasty blockage.
If all else fails, just blame me since I was there and I touched the car.
no I can't find a thing out of place, it is like it is running retarded or too advanced
Briano
Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click....
Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click....
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Calimus
- Grand High PooBah
- Posts: 2892
- Joined: Mon Sep 02, 2002 11:40 pm
- What year is your cabby?: 1989
- Do you own a Cabriolet?: Yes
- Location: Cartersville, Ga
Ok, stupid question time. Have you tried advancing or retarding the distributor to see what you get?
Cause this really is starting to sound like the crabby cabby. I timed the car countless times, never seemed to get it right. Drop in a 260 hydro cam and viola, damn thing runs like a top.
Maybe thats what you should do Brian. Order the 260 autotec cam from MJM autohaus and drop it in there
Hell it worked for me.
Cause this really is starting to sound like the crabby cabby. I timed the car countless times, never seemed to get it right. Drop in a 260 hydro cam and viola, damn thing runs like a top.
Maybe thats what you should do Brian. Order the 260 autotec cam from MJM autohaus and drop it in there
Hell it worked for me.
16' Challenger ScatPack
05' Yamaha FJR1300
02' Honda VTX 1800C
05' Yamaha FJR1300
02' Honda VTX 1800C
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Briano1234
- Whats that smell?
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- Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 5:45 am
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oh I have I advanced it or retarded it.. I have set it at 2300 and it is rock hard at 6 before tdc......... it is a puzzlement.
It is like I hear a vacuum leak but It is nowhere to be found, no exhaust leak.
.....so when I get the green one fixed then I can look further into it.
It is like I hear a vacuum leak but It is nowhere to be found, no exhaust leak.
.....so when I get the green one fixed then I can look further into it.
Briano
Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click....
Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click....
-
Briano1234
- Whats that smell?
- Posts: 4105
- Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 5:45 am
- What year is your cabby?: 1992
- Do you own a Cabriolet?: No
- Location: Duluth, Ga
- Contact:
Okay, here it goes.
I had to replace the head gasket on the blue cabby, pressure in the water hoses and leaking coolant from the side of the head.
After the replacement of the thing it is running like crap.
I have it in time, absolutely rock hard 6 degrees BTDC @2250 RPM, it is also in static time....
it Idles at 950 rpm but it isn't a happy idle. I have moved the dist front and back and it dosen't effect it.
When It idles there is some hesitation, and it may want to die.
I have replaced the following on the head when I changed the gasket.
Injector Seals,
Wires,
Cap,
Rotor,
Head Gasket,
All Vacuum hoses,
Intake gasket,
o2 sensor (it was bad) used the bosch 13913 (mustang) replacement. This cured my put put rich condition that I had.....
It hesitates, and bogs when you try to rev it, and there is no Power at take off.
I think but can't be certain that I hear a vacuum leak, but the only thing I can think of is the intake manifold gasket didn't seat. but I can't swear to it. I sprayed carb cleaner all over the hoses to check for the leak, and I have sprayed the hell out of the manifold with carb cleaner and ether...
If I retard the timing there is a hell of a knock from around the 4th Cylinder as in pre-ignition, that I can time away.
It dosen't matter if I remove the cts sensor or not.
At Idle if I turn on the A/C it may stall and die, or it may stumble and then recover.
When you take the car out on the road, it goessssssssss there is no apparent stumble at highway speeds......... this is a puzzle ment.
Of course it is something to do with the head replacement as it was running so sweetly prior..........
I had to replace the head gasket on the blue cabby, pressure in the water hoses and leaking coolant from the side of the head.
After the replacement of the thing it is running like crap.
I have it in time, absolutely rock hard 6 degrees BTDC @2250 RPM, it is also in static time....
it Idles at 950 rpm but it isn't a happy idle. I have moved the dist front and back and it dosen't effect it.
When It idles there is some hesitation, and it may want to die.
I have replaced the following on the head when I changed the gasket.
Injector Seals,
Wires,
Cap,
Rotor,
Head Gasket,
All Vacuum hoses,
Intake gasket,
o2 sensor (it was bad) used the bosch 13913 (mustang) replacement. This cured my put put rich condition that I had.....
It hesitates, and bogs when you try to rev it, and there is no Power at take off.
I think but can't be certain that I hear a vacuum leak, but the only thing I can think of is the intake manifold gasket didn't seat. but I can't swear to it. I sprayed carb cleaner all over the hoses to check for the leak, and I have sprayed the hell out of the manifold with carb cleaner and ether...
If I retard the timing there is a hell of a knock from around the 4th Cylinder as in pre-ignition, that I can time away.
It dosen't matter if I remove the cts sensor or not.
At Idle if I turn on the A/C it may stall and die, or it may stumble and then recover.
When you take the car out on the road, it goessssssssss there is no apparent stumble at highway speeds......... this is a puzzle ment.
Of course it is something to do with the head replacement as it was running so sweetly prior..........
Briano
Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click....
Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click....
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gull
- Posts: 817
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- Location: Auburn, WA
- Contact:
Hmm. What about timing advance? Have you checked that it's working properly? You can rev the engine while watching the marks with your timing light, if they move you're OK.
If this is a CIS car, I'd also suggest you hook a dwell meter up to the Lambda test connector. What kind of reading do you get? This will tell you how well the base mixture is set, by showing you how much of a correction the O2 sensor is calling for. If the base mixture is off, it's time to find out why. For that you'll need a fuel pressure gauge set. Do NOT adjust the mixture screw until you're sure nothing else is wrong. You didn't move the mixture screw when you took the thing apart, so if the mixture is off now something else is wrong.
If this is a CIS car, I'd also suggest you hook a dwell meter up to the Lambda test connector. What kind of reading do you get? This will tell you how well the base mixture is set, by showing you how much of a correction the O2 sensor is calling for. If the base mixture is off, it's time to find out why. For that you'll need a fuel pressure gauge set. Do NOT adjust the mixture screw until you're sure nothing else is wrong. You didn't move the mixture screw when you took the thing apart, so if the mixture is off now something else is wrong.
VW fan who fell to the Honda side of the force
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Briano1234
- Whats that smell?
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- Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 5:45 am
- What year is your cabby?: 1992
- Do you own a Cabriolet?: No
- Location: Duluth, Ga
- Contact:
Get around, behind the intake manifold gasket with a mirror and fresh flashlight batteries, see if there's a bit of gasket hanging out that shouldn't be.
Take the intake duct between the MAF and throttle body completely off, hold it up to light, flex it and look at and through it every which way. Seems I recall it being pretty easy to re-install just a little off for a massive leak, also working it may have flexed it it's last and cracked it.
I don't think EFI can run at all with fuel lines reversed, but............
Got all the grounds back on the valve cover?
Whatever it is, it wasn't like that when you started the job, it's some small detail you overlooked, not another broken component.
Stand back, look at the car, think through every step of the tear down, every step of the re-assembly. Go for a walk around the block. When you get back, you'll walk right to the cause.
Take the intake duct between the MAF and throttle body completely off, hold it up to light, flex it and look at and through it every which way. Seems I recall it being pretty easy to re-install just a little off for a massive leak, also working it may have flexed it it's last and cracked it.
I don't think EFI can run at all with fuel lines reversed, but............
Got all the grounds back on the valve cover?
Whatever it is, it wasn't like that when you started the job, it's some small detail you overlooked, not another broken component.
Stand back, look at the car, think through every step of the tear down, every step of the re-assembly. Go for a walk around the block. When you get back, you'll walk right to the cause.