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WARNINGS
Do it in a well ventilated area Scoot the seat fully forward and have
all your tools ready.
OPEN YOUR TOP

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1. Make sure that you have 3/4 or less of a tank of gas
2. Disconnect the battery.

3. Open the gas cap to vent pressure.
4. Remove the 2 phillips screws that are holding the rear seat bottom in place.


5. Remove the rear seat bottom
6. You will see a black circular cover held in place by 3 phillips screws.

7. Clean the cap off of crud and dust the area around the cover, you don't want that falling in to your tank.

8. Remove the cover screws and pop the cap of with a flat blade and your hand.

9. You will see 2 hose connections and a electrical connector.

10. If the hose clamps are original they will need to be cut off with a pair or diagonal pliers then gently push the hoses off the tubes, they may spit a bit of gas because of residual pressure.
Make sure your GAS cap is OFF the CAR……
11. Remove the electrical connector by wiggleing the rubber socket (do not pull on the wires).
12. Clean all the crud from around the fuel pump cap.

13. Take some duct tape and cover a large flatblade screwdriver tip.
14. Use the flat blade to wedge in one of the notches on the rim of the fuel pump cover and smack it to the left (counter clock wise )untill the cap will pop off a bit. (you may have to smack all 3 tabs a bit to loosen.

15 Gently pull up and unwind the In-tank and float assembly out of the hole, you will have to wiggle it to clear the float arm and possible the sender unit do not be over forcefull, be carefull not to let the pickup screen fall back into the tank.
Be careful if you drop the strainer in the tank you can use a mechanical fingers to get it back out.

16. With the Fuel pump safely out cut the lower clamp on the rubber connector off, or remove the hose clamp.
(on mine I usually replace that connector hose with a piece of 5/16 inch fuel hose cut to the same lenght.)

17 disconnect the Fuel pump connector.
18. Pull the pump off the connector.
19. Place the new clamp on the hose prior to replacing the new pump on the hose.
20. Tighten the clamp and replace the strainer. I have found that if you take a 3 foot piece of string, and loop it to hold the strainer tight to the pump, I tied it at the top to keep the Strainer from falling off on insertion makes re-installing so much easier. After you install it but before you lock it down, Snip the string and gently pull on the knotted side until it is out.



21. Reconnect the electrical connector to the pump.
22. Clean the o-ring gasket and the lip of the pump Lubricate the cleaned lip with Grease which will make it easier on the o-ring and the lock when you tighten it back up.




23. Lubricate the o-ring with petroleum jelly.

The O-Ring is 2 9/16" in diameter and 1/8 inch thick if you need to source a new one. Napa sells them but you will probably have to order them in.
24. Wiggle the o-ring over the float, then back to the top of the cap. Unstrung

25. Gently replace the pump assembly in the tank be mindful to get the float in first and seat the o-ring (critical to get a good seat on the ring to the tank).
The string around the filter will prevent it from dropping in the tank as you wiggle install the thing. Cut the String and pull on the knotted side Gentley removing the string out of the way.
Make sure that the o-ring is in the grove and not half in the tank.

26. The pump will seat in to the locking tabs at the 5 o'clock position , then apply a little downward force clock wise to start the pump into the lock to catch.
27. Once the pump is caught on the locking tabs, then using the screwdriver and a hammer again smack the pump cap to the right (clock wise)


28. Once the pipes are facing the back seat as in the 6:30 position
29. Replace the hose and clamps.
30. Replace the electrical connector.

31. Reconnect the battery and start the car and rev it has the primary pump stopped whining? GOOD.
32. Replace the cover for the tank access.
33. Replace the rear seat.
34. Fasten the rear seat with the phillips screws.
35. Place the top up, and drive away.