The past week in Car repair

[sixsracing]

Are you running an oil cooler? The seal between the block and the cooler is a common problem, difficult to distinguish between oil filter seal and cooler seal when they leak. May be the problem. Upon initial startup the oil pressure can peg that high and be normal. The blockage is a possibility but seeing as you have already driven it sounds kinda unlikely. One more thing, I have seen oil filter pressure reliefs fail, change the filter out with a good (WIX, OE, MANN) one.

I doubt this is serious, take a deep breath.

[CalAltaDubber]

It's defenatly the oil filter seal. Wix filters both times . Blew the rubber seal right out.

I dropped the oil pan today and pulled the oil pump. I believe it is the relief valve, so in the next couple of days I am sourcing a new valave or whole pump.

The oil pressure issue is a non-player, the high pressure must have damaged the sender, it reads a constant 12 psi, even when disconnected from the block. That should be pretty easy to replace.

The few days off sure helped sort out my chain of thought.

[Briano1234]

It's defenatly the oil filter seal. Wix filters both times . Blew the rubber seal right out.

I dropped the oil pan today and pulled the oil pump. I believe it is the relief valve, so in the next couple of days I am sourcing a new valave or whole pump.

The oil pressure issue is a non-player, the high pressure must have damaged the sender, it reads a constant 12 psi, even when disconnected from the block. That should be pretty easy to replace.

The few days off sure helped sort out my chain of thought.

For replacing the pump get the high output one for the 2.0L it is a great upgrade, and at one time was cheaper than the
regular pump. You can use the same bolts as my old bolts fit right up.

[Briano1234]

I had Honder issues, with a "gee Dad, my battery is dead."
I mossy over and sure enough the battery is devoid of charge.
Jump the car and drive it to Advance, and have it tested they say the Battery is good, but the Alternator is shot.
Take the Alternator off, and run it up to pepboys and it tests good. Battery is good too.
So I take the Alternator to Autozone, and they test it and say its bad. The tester never spun they tell me it is bad because of Glazing on the belt. I said it didn't ever run.
So I go to Advance, they have a different tester and they tell me it is bad. Then he quotes me 150 for the thing, when I said that he has to break Pepboys of 109 he says he can't.

So back to pepboys and the Alt tests good 13.85V@75Amp.

Chasing down 6 ohms on my grounds I find a bad bonding wire, 2.5 homes and 4ohms on the Engine to frame, when I took it off half the strands were broke and there was a lot of green corrosion. Now I have 0ohms any where I ground.
I decided to check or parasitic loss and move the tester to 10A current.... I have .002millivots cool, I then start the car and
check the voltage......SMOKE ON THE WATER>>>>>>Forgetting to change the meters leads to VOLTs, I fried my 4.99 Harbor freight tester.... Pull out my spare and I have 14Vdc.

Moral of the story, Don't trust the on car testers nor the idiots that use them and don't trust AdvanceAuto Assholes at all.

[kamzcab86]

The short of that story is:
AutoZone was trying to sell a part.
Advanced was trying to sell a part.
PepBoys was being honest(!).

[CalAltaDubber]

It's defenatly the oil filter seal. Wix filters both times . Blew the rubber seal right out.

I dropped the oil pan today and pulled the oil pump. I believe it is the relief valve, so in the next couple of days I am sourcing a new valave or whole pump.

The oil pressure issue is a non-player, the high pressure must have damaged the sender, it reads a constant 12 psi, even when disconnected from the block. That should be pretty easy to replace.

The few days off sure helped sort out my chain of thought.

For replacing the pump get the high output one for the 2.0L it is a great upgrade, and at one time was cheaper than the
regular pump. You can use the same bolts as my old bolts fit right up.

Found a new pump, (under under $100) new filter and four litres of oil and the car purrs like a kitten.

Since it is lowered and has power steering, I find the ride much different than Topless Bunny But it is great to have it going.

Too bad it missed all the shows I wanted to take it to.

[Briano1234]

Install a a/c compressor pull vacuum fill..... nice to have a/c again.
4 cars 4 oil changes 2 emissions done 2 to go.

[Calimus]

No repairs for me as of late. New job isn't kicking my arse, but keeping me very busy, but that should only last the next two weeks. However, On Friday the 6th, I went to the new job to fill out HR paper work. At noon I left, came home, changed, then picked up my father. We then drove to Memphis and picked up a 2004 Yamaha FJR 1300 and brought it back. This is Cristines new bike. It's the same bike I have, just a year older. She was ready to upgrade form her Sv650 and I was tired of her steeling my bike. So problem solved, she has her own FJR.

So, we should have the SV sold next week, and then I'm just waiting on a paycheck from the new job (only get paid once a month, just like a teacher) and then I think it might be time to order some parts for the top of Crabby Cabby.

[Briano1234]

Just in time for the Rainy Season.....

[gull]

Had a shop do the clutch in mine...just didn't have the working space or the time to do it myself.

Now I'm getting annoyed with the fact that it wants to misfire below 1000 RPM for the first minute or two after it's started. It always did this on hot starts but it's gotten worse lately. I suspect a bad fuel accumulator or check valve. (It was marginal last time I did a fuel pressure retention check, and that was a couple years ago.) I'll have to do some fuel system testing when I get more time.

[Briano1234]

Well the Green one didn't pass the emissions, and I thought that it had eaten another cat.
But I dropped it and it was dame near prefect looking. no cracks, holes or broken honeycomb.

So I changed the o2 sensor, CTS sensor, the low oil pressure switch as I have been getting a little low oil flicker at idle.
Cleaned the MAF, and MAF Pot. Found a hole in the Air tube, clean the bejeezers and patched with RTV.
Replace the rotor and clean the cap, Already changed the oil and air cleaner. So I decided to check the plugs.
They were toasted. There had to be .040 gap the anodes were wore down, and the anodes were worn, and crusty.
The plugs didn't appear to be oil or a/f fouled, just tired and worn out.

Speaking or worn out,,, been going at it since 4:00 pm yesterday. I think I will take two margaritas, and sleep till morning.

[gull]

Noticed low voltage on the voltmeter on the way home, today -- around 11.5 volts. At first I thought my alternator might be going out, but a quick check with a multimeter showed 14 volts at the output stud. Quickly traced the problem to a loose connection at the starter solenoid, which I tightened. The mechanic must not have gotten it tight enough when he put the transmission back in.

[84Vert]

This weekend hope to drain the almost full tank of 7 year old gas, drop the tank and see how bad the rust is on the inside. Will not get to do much for the next month, one son in California gets married next weekend and my other son will be home for a couple of weeks from the middle east, yippee will be good to see both of them.

[Briano1234]

Well the Green one didn't pass the emissions, and I thought that it had eaten another cat.
But I dropped it and it was dame near prefect looking. no cracks, holes or broken honeycomb.

So I changed the o2 sensor, CTS sensor, the low oil pressure switch as I have been getting a little low oil flicker at idle.
Cleaned the MAF, and MAF Pot. Found a hole in the Air tube, clean the bejeezers and patched with RTV.
Replace the rotor and clean the cap, Already changed the oil and air cleaner. So I decided to check the plugs.
They were toasted. There had to be .040 gap the anodes were wore down, and the anodes were worn, and crusty.
The plugs didn't appear to be oil or a/f fouled, just tired and worn out.

Speaking or worn out,,, been going at it since 4:00 pm yesterday. I think I will take two margaritas, and sleep till morning.

Bought new plugs, the NGK BP6ET triples, reset the timing to retard it a wee bit, and ran SeaFoam through the manifold and low and behold it still failed for NOX, the number decreased, but not enough to pass.

the number were originally

Failed emssions on green cabby numbers are:

25/25

hc 161 147 allowed <<<<fail
co .057 .082 allowed
no2 2109 1072 allowed <<<<fail
rpm 1876 3000 max
co+co2 13.9 6.0 min

50/15
hc 74 152 allowed
co 0.18 0.85 allowed
no2 1567 1186 allowed <<<Fail
1181 3000 rpm max
co+co2 14.2 6.0allowed min

Passing numbers after verifying the timing was slightly retarded like the owner, Running Seafoam Through the TB, putting a can of Guaranteed TO PASS in the tank, and installing a new CAT.
Why wait so long for putting on the cat, as when I took the old one off, it didn't have any real damage to the Honey Comb, all I could thing was that it was devoid of the chemicals to react with or so clobbered up. I Wonder what you could soak it in to re-vitalize it. LOL

25/25

hc 18 147 allowed
co .03 .082 allowed
no2 767 1072 allowed
rpm 1876 3000 max
co+co2 14.3 6.0 min

50/15
hc 15 152 allowed
co 0.02 0.85 allowed
no2 991 1186 allowed
1181 3000 rpm max
co+co2 14.3 6.0allowed min

Along the way, I replaced The Battery, the o2 sensor, the CTS sensor, Cleaned the MAF, Installed new Plugs, New Rotor, a new Oil Pressure switch,
Found a Burst looking hose, and today the radiator vent decided to chafe through on the interstate making be pull over and repair that by cutting it and reconnecting. I knew there was a reason that I always cut that specific hose about a foot longer....

So all my Cars Passed.......finally. I am just going to buy a cat and leave it in the garage and install it prior to the test next year.

[Calimus]

Sheesh Brian. All I can say is I'm rather glad there are no emissions where I live. For now anyway.