While that is true, about doleing out. if you have a 600watt amp running your sub woofer as some do, then according to ohms law P power in amps equals I amps times E voltage.
so 600 divided by 12vdv = 50amps.
Ricers wonder why they blow out batteries and alternators because of thier big honking Stereos or Subs....
The voltage meter in the Cabby is on a multi drop circuit. If you wire it to a more direct route, or a less loaded circuit you see the true measure of your system.
With the H4's on, and the A/c on and a good Stereo system, you will probably be taxing the hell out of the Alternator, to have ti keep the 12 volts up, and the current flowing. ie: you will burn out the regulator. This original alternator was marginal at best for the loads, but it does the job. With the way that they have the Stereos with the AMPS you need proper cabeling, and proper amperage avail.
That is why the Starter and the Alternator have big honking wires.....
and why good Stereo Shops use big honking wire to run systems.
The H4's only pull at most 15 amp each, with a 120W stereo pulls 120divided by 12 is 10amp so right there you have a 40amp draw. Leaving 20amp reserve that will be cut in half by the tail lights, and god forbid running the a/c
One additional thought is that you can use a clamp on inductive Ammeter and start your car and turn everything on Brights a/c full fan, and crank the stereo up and have some one cycle the windows to tell you how much you are drawing. You might also be able to go to a "Advance Auto Parts and have them test it on the car, as they can tell you how much you are drawing and if your alternator is able to keep up.
So Upgrading to the Audi or 120 vw one is not a bad idea.
