Just Bought a 1990 Cabby, Got a few questions

[Briano1234]

Well since you hear the controller for the windows my best advice is:

Clean out your rain trays of all debris, and the drains.
Hear is a pic of the passenger side tray the yellow arrows point to where the electric controller for the windows sits. and with the airbox cover removed you can see how little lip there is to prevent water from backing up and ruining the controller.



There is an identical drain under the ECU unit drivers side.

Remove the heater box cover, there are 3 screws clean the crap from under the seal and then replace the foam.
Re-route the vacuum lines out of the drain.
from this:



to



Install a leaf guard from a 90 golf, you can usually find them in the junk yard, or make your own:
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1509

Now for the fix, see the window thread on the tex:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2126843

But after you get all the above fixed first, then replace the controller unit... it is probably water logged and defunct.
You can use any out of any mk2 golf/jetta/passant They appear on ebay from time to time. Doing the above will prevent water from ruining it again

[CalAltaDubber]

Fiddled with the lights a bit when I got home from work... no luck with having the key on. Haven't had a chance to try the fuses yet. It's pouring rain here and the forecast says it won't let up until at least Friday... what a great time to have bought a convertible .

I'll keep you guys posted.

I still think you are looking at a switch replacment. I will get some pictures of how to do it by the week end.

Well here is how to replace the light switch

First is to get a light switch. Here is one I got at my local wrecker.



The switch has several circuits involving the vehicle lights. since it is the only part that has moving parts (aside from the dimmer/signal switch) chances are good the problem with your head lights is here.

First here is where it is mounted on the dash


First remove the trim.
Place your thumb on the side nearest the speedometer and just press, as shown.
Rotate the trim panel out.


The switch is held in place by two springs (one located on either side of the switch).

Using a small common screwdriver and pry the side of the switch nearest the door until it is about 1/8th of an inch out of the dash, as shown.



Then using the screwdriver pry the other side of the switch until it is the same.


The switch can now be pulled out of the dash like this:



That is the hard part

Pull the switch out of the dash as far as possable. the connector on the back of the switch should just clear the dash.



Seperate the switch from the connector.

The connector should look like this with the switch removed.

You will notice a small light bulb on the left side of the connector, about half way between the top and bottom of the connector.

Now is a good time to replace the bulb if the switch does not illuminate. (The switch should be illuminated whenever the key is in the ON position.)

These bulbs are not too expensive and available at any VW dealer.



All you have to do now is connect the new switch to the connector (It only connects ine way).

push the switch back into position and replace the trim by snapping it back into place.

[chloeroxymax]

Wow... thank you all for so much detailed help on the Windows and Lights.

I was able to get the lights working using the wiring diagrams in the book and a $4 switch from the auto parts store. Now I have headlights, taillights, and brake lights (although I've got the backup lights stuck on all the time -- I'll work on that later). Autozone wanted $30 for the replacement part, and I don't have access to a good junkyard in the area.

I'm not going to worry about the windows a great deal right now, but that incredibly detailed explanation will make it an easy fix when I do get back around to it.

So the next priorities are this: getting that trunk open and getting some new tires. Does anyone have pictures of the underside of that parcel shelf in the back so I can decide if/where I have to cut it to get to the latch? If I knew what I was looking for, I might even be able to unlatch the seats and drop them forward instead of ripping out that shelf.

[kamzcab86]

So the next priorities are this: getting that trunk open and getting some new tires. Does anyone have pictures of the underside of that parcel shelf in the back so I can decide if/where I have to cut it to get to the latch?

No need to cut it; it's held in place by four (2 per side) clips. Simply insert a pry bar (or something similar) at about center on each side and carefully pry it up, out of the clips. You can't move the seatback foward without having access to the trunk due to the lock holding the seatback latch in place.

[kamzcab86]

Now is a good time to replace the bulb if the switch does not illuminate. (The switch should be illuminated whenever the key is in the ON position.)

These bulbs are not too expensive and available at any VW dealer.

They're also available at your local auto parts store; I found them at Checker.

[chloeroxymax]

The saga continues...

I was able to get into the trunk last night. Prying up the parcel shelf went exactly as kamzcab86 said it would, with the exception that there are some large aftermarket speakers bolted to the shelf in mine... thus making the shelf 10 times heavier than it should be. Once I got it out, I discovered a fire extinguisher, a car cover, jumper cables, spare tire & iron (maybe a jack), and a small toolbox full of tools and electrical connectors. And an aftermarket audio amplifier.

I pulled the black panel covering the lock linkage off, and found what I expected (kinda). The two screws holding the black actuator plate (for lack of a better term) are missing, and thus the acutator cannot operate the latch mechanism. After much weeping, moaning, and gnashing of teeth, I got it working, and only need to find a place to get the replacement screws.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

[CalAltaDubber]

Right on Chloe!

Glad you didn't have to do too much dammage to get in there.

[kamzcab86]

That parcel shelf was the lid to a VW treasure chest!

[Calimus]

Now this is what I like seeing, everyone chipping in and helping someone out. Not that it's never happened before, but I still like seeing it.

Though, as usual, I have nothing to add as everyone else has pretty much got it covered. Maybe next question.

[chloeroxymax]

OK guys: finally some pix of the oil and coolant dripping monster.

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[chloeroxymax]

a couple more:

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Again, thanks for everyone's help. Next up for me: finding and fixing coolant leaks, and fixing the accelerator pedal to throttle cable linkage (which broke this morning as my son and I were driving around). I guess it wasn't the linkage, because whoever fixed it before me did what I did this morning: use a cable tie to connect the loop on the pedal arm to the hook on the end of the throttle cable. I didn't have any cable ties in the car, so I had to call a friend.

Now I have over 100 cable ties in the car, as well as a light source to debug the problem.

One other note: anyone had problems with the brake light fuse blowing? Would that be due to the wrong bulbs being installed?

[Briano1234]

The throttle cable is because the bushing is bad, they are like 3 bucks at the dealer, or you can use a rubber flask stopper that has a hole in the middle of it.
then place the stopper in on one side and the cable in from the other, clip to the throttle cable end.

Brake lights blowing sounds like a bad ground connection, or you have 2 wires touching in the trunk... It is a pain in the ass to get to.... cause you have to be a contortionist, or Kammy to do it. Also you can lower the back seat to get more room.........

Coolant leaks are usually on the head, where the cheap assed plastic flange is.... or possible the thermostat housing.

for the thermostat housing you have to remove the power steering bracket (I didn't design it) and remove the 2 10mm bolts, when replacing the bolts use a 1/4 inch 6pt socket, clean the bolts well and use never-seize. Replacing the thermostat and the o-ring is a good thing to do. Also might want to back flush the cooling system... Piece of mind.... The Radiators are a little wonky, as well as the res jugs... the Heater cores are also know to leak. If you tell us where the leak is we can assist you better.

[tolusina]

About the brake light fuse, I'd first look at the flexy harness to the trunk lid for the 3rd/high/center brake light.

[kamzcab86]

It may have problems, but your Cab looks really nice!

My Cab lost its gas pedal bushing long ago, and amazingly, the cable never came off the pedal! New cable, new bushing and driving around is sooooo much better now! Definitely worth a trip to the dealer for the bushing.

[chloeroxymax]

Thanks Kammy... I'm having fun with it.

Hard to tell in the pictures, but I have a bit of rust (covered with paint) in the trunk door, and a little bit on the hood close to the windshield. Not too bad. Eventually, I may try to fix that. But after I get some of the mechanical solved and get a top on it next spring.

I'm having a heck of a time finding some used tires for the thing. In the immediate, I don't plan on driving it more than about 5k a year, and new tires would dryrot before I could use them up. There just aren't any 14" used tires anywhere.