oil pressure mabye?

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tolusina
Posts: 163
Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2006 11:30 pm
Do you own a Cabriolet?: Yes
Location: 313

Post by tolusina »

Metallicabby wrote:......... Light flashes at idle - buzzer sometimes.......
http://reflectionsandshadows.com/cabby/dopws.html

Hope that helps. :wink:

Ron


OOOh OOH!! Page 2!! Woo HOO!!
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speedtek
Posts: 264
Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2006 12:38 am
What year is your cabby?: 1982

Post by speedtek »

Just some added FYI to the discussion. Fram filters are noted to restrict oil flow and make your pump work much harder in a VW. They don't have the same valving or bypass construction as the OEM filters. (Plus, they're just plain crap.) If you want the best, get a Canton/mecca cartridge type, they filter down to 8 microns and have FAR better flow characteristics than anything else you can buy. Plus you get the added benefit of a permanent aluminum housing with a removable cartridge filter.....this helps immensely if you want to be able to inspect the filter when you remove it. Let's you know how healthy the internals are. The initial purchase is expensive ($99), but after that you just have to buy the filter cartridges ($15) and seal kits every two changes ($10).
http://www.cmfilters.com/spin-on.cfm

From Autotech sport tuning (that's where I got mine)
Canton/Mecca Oil Filter

The cheapest protection an engine can have is good oil filtration. Original equipment Volkswagen filters are high quality, but the stock filter can be improved upon in many ways.

Stock filters incorporate bypass valves which always circulate unfiltered oil upon cold starting. As a stock filter collects dirt during use, it eventually clogs, causing the bypass valve to open, circulating dirty oil back into the engine.

Stock filters only catch particles 20 to 25 microns in size, or larger. Some cheaper, aftermarket replacement filters also provide a substantial flow restriction that the oil pump must overcome, eventually costing some power.

For some years, Mecca Development has produced a superior filter system. Its qualifications:

• Spin-on housing with replaceable filter element

• Nominal filtration down to 8 Microns

• Full time filtration, with virtually no restriction, of 15 gph on 4" versions (a flow rate greatly exceeding any VW engine's requirements)

• Blow-out proof element and a permanent housing made of machined cast aluminum

• Replaceable element with a life of up to 15,000 miles in street usage

• The feature of take-apart inspection to help determine engine condition

The combination of the lifetime housing and inspectable 15,000 mile element make economical sense for your motor - whether it's stock or a real screamer.

Complete Filter includes one element and all seals. Filter elements are sold individually. It is recommended that all seals be replaced at least every 2nd element change. One seal kit contains all seals for one filter.
I just know shit..........
my (really) old cardomain
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dubchickshubby
Posts: 164
Joined: Mon May 02, 2005 9:32 pm
Do you own a Cabriolet?: Yes
Location: Rhode Island

Post by dubchickshubby »

A thread like this will soooo many variations. I use Mahle filters and 20/50 Redline on DubChick's as it's the baby and gets all the best. Last summer it got fresh bearings, pump and rings. Did the head while I was at it, but I messed up on the shims and it's got some valvetrain noise... The light is typical on startup and will stop once it revs and clears the alt light. The gauge is always pegged at 4.5 bar until she warms a bit. It then settles down to 2.5 at idle. Shoots to 5 bar at speed.

My beater on the other hand gets nothing but "abuse". Walmart "tech" filters (made by Fram btw) and "tech" earl in the gallon jugs. It's probably part veg oil from greasetraps for all I know, but get this: It runs absolutely fine. Although I religiously change my oil at 2500/3000 miles. Hell, it only costs me $12.50 a pop! :roll:

I've treated that car with nothing but a bad attitude and it just keeps going. It was originally designated a parts donor, but it runs too good to strip it! The 'rocco wound up donating parts to it instead! It's kinda like me... now that I think of it, they both seem to have taken on our personalities! Both 87's, completey different running characteristics.
Her car, my tools. It's all about sharing!
///Ocean State Dubs
'87 red/white Cabby
'92 Triple white Cabby(an 8V decked and overbored nightmare. 303 Cam baybee!)
cwingerter
Posts: 14
Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 10:20 pm
What year is your cabby?: 1989
Location: Denver, Colorado

Re: oil pressure mabye?

Post by cwingerter »

I can attest that proper filter and oil weight goes a long way to avoiding the low pressure light syndrome. Bosch filters seems to do the trick. :D

When it comes to checking your own pressure mechanically...
Is this easily done by a novice do-it-yourself type and what is needed to accomplish the task.

Thanks

89 white clipper cabriolet
--89 White Cabriolet--aka the White Shadow
tolusina
Posts: 163
Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2006 11:30 pm
Do you own a Cabriolet?: Yes
Location: 313

Re: oil pressure mabye?

Post by tolusina »

cwingerter wrote:......
When it comes to checking your own pressure mechanically...
Is this easily done by a novice do-it-yourself type and what is needed to accomplish the task......

Mostly hardware store stuff will do the job. Get a gauge that reads up to 100 PSI or so, it'll probably have 1/4" NPT (pipe) threads. Get a 1/4" NPT to 5/16" or so hose barb fitting and a length of oil resistant hose. Get hose barb to 1/8" NPT male fitting and a 10X1 mm metric threading die. Run the die over the 1/8 pipe threads, you've just converted the fitting to metric, it'll now screw right into the cylinder head in place of the dual sender and/or into any of several ports in the oil filter flange.
You should expect to see higher pressures at the filter flange than at the head. Specs are all at fully warmed up temperatures, they're in Bentley.
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