no switch movement, and only occasionally opening the drivers door would the
window move down some.
I was resolved to fix it.
The controller is on the passenger side under the knee bar.
![Image](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/briano1234/window%20controller/DSCI0057_zps4097ef9b.jpg)
Remove the passenger side vent, and duct (you can see what you are doing and get your arm in there.
Remove the 2 10mm nuts holding the unit to the frame.
Now you have the controller down disconnect the wires.
The brown and black have clips that you push in, and are Keyed (can't get them in wrong)
The large white one is a mother, and considerable wiggling and pulling (it isn't a lock connector)
![Image](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/briano1234/window%20controller/DSCI0036_zpsf0b7f0b4.jpg)
![Image](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/briano1234/window%20controller/DSCI0033_zpsc514892c.jpg)
![Image](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/briano1234/window%20controller/DSCI0037_zps26e85d46.jpg)
To open the case you have to use 3 flat blade screw drivers to get the box off the circuit board.
![Image](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/briano1234/window%20controller/DSCI0040_zps78716634.jpg)
Pry and push a bit to release the 3 catches, then on the edge pry up. This will release it a git on either end, then you go and
insert a screw driver on the other side to release the catch and pry up, it will pop out.
![Image](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/briano1234/window%20controller/DSCI0041_zps13906b0b.jpg)
The back side, see the surface mounted components.
![Image](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/briano1234/window%20controller/DSCI0044_zpsed4fc01c.jpg)
The front side:
![Image](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/briano1234/window%20controller/DSCI0043_zps8fe73536.jpg)
They are all single throw relays.
The components I couldn't find listed in Mouser but they are:
Main IC
Intel 5396 201650 dsd9201V5 (1977)
The next IC is TI 321CA
Crystal Phillips 3.0mhz 019079208
1 c875 Transistor
2 c517 Transistor
1 Toshiba descrete 7900s
3 22Mic 25V electrolytic caps
1 1Mic 63V electrolytic cap
1 heat sinked descrete BD438
There are a bunch of surface mount diodes and caps on the bottom
I went over my controller with a fine tooth comb and didn't see any water or cold soldered joints.
So I decided that we needed to see a truth table for the relays.
I reconnected the power and switches and got this:
![Image](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/briano1234/window%20controller/e2440749-b2ad-45ad-af9a-4cd9d08dc968_zpse13875d2.jpg)
I buttoned it back up and I added one more thing. A WATER SHIELD. to make sure that the controller don't get wet.
I took the vinyl outer wrapper off a DVD case, and Poked 2 holes in it.
![Image](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/briano1234/window%20controller/DSCI0053_zps955f8492.jpg)
![Image](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/briano1234/window%20controller/DSCI0054_zps0d9f504f.jpg)
Here it is all mounted up notice that I made a channel for the water to run off and away from the unit.
![Image](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/briano1234/window%20controller/DSCI0055_zps25a543f6.jpg)
Now back to my original issue I decided to cut the little Brown/White wire back off the connector, and tape off both ends.
Here is the cool part about this mod.
Do you occasionally turn off your car and open the doors only to remember that you didn't roll up the windows?
Well this little brown/white wire is the door open ground from the driver door. So now for a few minutes you can roll up or down your windows with the drivers door open or closed.