Jetta Update

[Briano1234]

Did you remove the ground wire, and both tie-rod ends? Then again they are a booger.....and you remove the steering column bolt pushed it up? then are the hoses ty-wrapped somewhere?

Then it could be the bushings are heat welded to the chassis and the rack.

[SoCal_Cabby]

the problem i am having is the hole for it to come out is too small....it says it supposed to come out on the drivers side well id have to lower my subframe about 3" more for it to fit...the dude that did the write up for Bentley has to be a magician. the bentley has no mention of lowering the subframe at all

ive tried to get it out the driver side the passenger side and the center....after 11 hours total time working on it im about to get some discs for my die grinder and cut the damn thing in pieces

[Briano1234]

what I did was to cheat.

I didn't take the inner tie-rods off, and it would have been a hell of a lot easier to do it that way.

But I worked mine by moving the steering gear all the way to the drivers side to clear the passenger side as when you are turning it it lengthens the driver side and
sucks in on the passenger side. Then I did the same thing for the drivers side once the passenger side was out of he frame and pointing towards the ground.
Also removing the tie-rods outer saves 6 inches. Removing the inner is a piece of cake with the tool.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=96558

Autozone and advance will rent you them.

[SoCal_Cabby]

the problem was the hieght of the rack it was too tall no mater what angle i tried...doesnt matter now the i had to remove my subframe because i found one of the bolts holding to the car was sheared when i went to drop it the rest of the way the other front bolt sheared, so both front bols are sheared i remove the two rear bolts and the subframe would not come out even though there was only rust holding it in the car...i had to cut it out of the car, so now i need a subframe, and hopefully i can get the sheared bolts out of the car...cause it would really suck to have to get a new body for the car because those holes are ruined..

lets call this 14 steps in the wrong direction...so much for it being on the road this month

[sixsracing]

Been there, lived that. Hate when it all goes horribly wrong like that.
Lots of penetrating oil and then intense heat. Forget the easy outs,
just make it worse. Usually you can drill them out till you are almost
through the outer diameter and then use an undersize tap to jam in
the hole and break the rest up. Then tap to correct size.

[SoCal_Cabby]

im thinking im gonna end up doing this:
except i'll be doing it a little different with the hole..more like in the second link

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159025
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3234641

[Briano1234]

Been there, lived that. Hate when it all goes horribly wrong like that.
Lots of penetrating oil and then intense heat. Forget the easy outs,
just make it worse. Usually you can drill them out till you are almost
through the outer diameter and then use an undersize tap to jam in
the hole and break the rest up. Then tap to correct size.

Spray the bolts with PB-Blaster or CRC Freeze-Off. let them soak for a bit.
Go to your favorite hardware store or Harbor Freight and buy some Left Handed Drill bits.

With your drill running in reverse us a bit that is slightly smaller and center drill it.
The vibration of the bit cutting will shock that bolt loose and it should back right out.
I have used this on quite a few things lately and works better than any easy out I have ever tried.

[SoCal_Cabby]

theres no way to soak them in pb blaster because of gravity and the anchor nuts are inside the body of the car

[Briano1234]

theres no way to soak them in pb blaster because of gravity and the anchor nuts are inside the body of the car

Spray them a couple of times wait then use the left-hand bits.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=95146

[SoCal_Cabby]

theres no way to soak them in pb blaster because of gravity and the anchor nuts are inside the body of the car

Spray them a couple of times wait then use the left-hand bits.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=95146

i know them very well, but they arent gonna work in this situation..all thats gonna happen is the retainer for the captive nut is going to break which means im gonna have to cut the car to get to it anyway. pb blaster isnt going to help because there is nothing to spray....once i cut it open and have access to the nut/bolt i can soak it down

[SoCal_Cabby]

im hitting harbor freight in a few hours to get the hole saw just in case i need to cut it open...surgery starts tomorrow

[SoCal_Cabby]

subframe is put together minust the control arms...as soon as they get here its going in....this thing should be running and driving by next weekend hopefully

[SoCal_Cabby]

subframe is installed, just need to get my control arms and weld the anchor nut repair

[Briano1234]

ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh pretty.

[SoCal_Cabby]

ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh pretty.

wait till the lower control arms get here...i still need to get the poly sway bar end link bushings