92 Cabby

[pooface]

Went up there to check a couple more things and leave a deposit. Cooling fan was running when key is on. Owner says it always has. Signals and flashers inop. Signal light indicator stays on. Blower fan inop. Inop window motors removed without regulator. Voltage was low when running. Checked with voltmeter and doesn't appear to be charging. Red flag! Told them I need to consult TRF before making deal.

[Briano1234]

Cooling fan was running when key is on. Owner says it always has.
Sign that the a/c switch is always on, or that the afterrun fan relay is bad, o the afterrun thermo switch is flaky or a bad radiator fan switch.
Relay is on the Drivers fender in front of the battery. Standard relay remove it if the fan shuts off that is the issue. If it is still running then look at the radiator fan switch.

after run fan relay




Signals and flashers inop. Signal light indicator stays on.
Bad fuse

Blower fan inop.
Possibly a bad fan switch, Bad Blower motor, or a bad ground wire on the connector under the drivers side heater box. Also could be a bad fuse.



Inop window motors removed without regulator.
Were the motors removed and manual regulators installed? That is a sign of a plugged rain drain passenger side that allowed water to back up and
ruin the window controller that is under the fresh air plenum.

plugged drains where the water goes.



Clean rain drain


Voltage was low when running. Checked with voltmeter and doesn't appear to be charging.
If you blip the throttle and the rpm increases above 1100rpm, the battery light should go out, and the alternator should show 13.5 to 13.75 volts on the battery, the console gauge is known to read a volt low if the ground cables haven't been replaced.

Red flag! Told them I need to consult TRF before making deal.

Good move, New Atlernator 100 bucks, the blower motor is about 150-180, the controller is used off the internet for the windows and about 50 bucks.
Windows that don't roll down is a BIG issue.

Turns is a fuse .25 cents.

[pooface]

Thanks for the quick response. Car seems to be mech sound, but electrical is disaster! Inst panel is detached, relays laying around, windows motors out, no charging. I think the douche might have jumped it backwards. The alt looks new. Was hoping to be able to manually raise and lower windows until I can fix or convert. Can't understand why someone trying to sell a car that might be roadworthy not wrap up some loose ends to get more $. Without it charging I can't drive it home and am rapidly losing interest.

[Briano1234]

The dash being apart is why the blinkers dies as they shorted out the fuse for the 4-way switch because it is live on the 2 wires that run to the lamp bulb.
As the cluster is loose that can cause the blue exciter wire not to make thus causing the alternator not to charge.

[CalAltaDubber]

Thanks for the quick response. Car seems to be mech sound, but electrical is disaster! Inst panel is detached, relays laying around, windows motors out, no charging. I think the douche might have jumped it backwards. The alt looks new. Was hoping to be able to manually raise and lower windows until I can fix or convert. Can't understand why someone trying to sell a car that might be roadworthy not wrap up some loose ends to get more $. Without it charging I can't drive it home and am rapidly losing interest.

One thing Brian didn't mention. Check to see if the alternator belt is tight. Also there should be a blue wire connected to the alternator. Witout it connected, the alternator won't charge the battery. Since the Alt. looks new, my guess is the blue wire is broken or didn't get connected.

[kamzcab86]

Is that $1500 the sales price, or your "low-ball" offer? If it's the latter... what's wrong with this seller? Trying to sell a car for more than $1500 with the dash torn apart, electrical crap strewn about, and an alternator not charging is being incredibly greedy... and stupid.

I'd give the guy $1000 cash (tops), tow the car home, and get to work righting all those PO wrongs. Or, pay the $1000 and take some tools (and a print-out of the relay panel: http://www.cabby-info.com/electrical.htm ); put everything back together in the idiot's driveway and drive it home.

The car not charging: As Brian said, the instrument panel not being plugged in means no charge signal is getting to the alternator; the relays laying on the floor could be a source of all sorts of issues.

[pooface]

I might offer him $1000. I have no way to tow it the 20 miles or so. It's a wierd size battery so I don't have a fully charged one to take in case the other one went dead enroute. Plus having the alt running without charging anything might do more damage. The inst panel is connected electrically, just detached from the dash. My son said he saw at least one clipped wire near the missing stereo. It might just be stereo-related. The wife says the extra relays came with the car.

[Briano1234]

offer him 9, then pay a tow truck to deliver it home.

[CalAltaDubber]

I agree with Brian and Kamz. You do want to tow it home, and the value is not more than $1000.

[Briano1234]

Here is a 1500 dollar cabriolet that I bought.
It needed a Head Gasket, Brakes, the top was shot, as well as the seat recovered, and a big dent removed on the door, as well as pink tape on the side trim.
It ran well.... I drove it home 200 miles.

[bfrey003]

I paid $2000 for mine (partly my stupidity) but it included them replacing the top. runs well and besides a few mechanical problems just need a new paint job. If you cant drive it home i wouldnt pay more than $1200, try going for $1000 and use the other money to tow it back. Or if you/they/a friend have a truck then rent one of the uhual car tow things

[pooface]

This one does have a few positives: It has a recent metallic paint job that I would rate as a 7. But at least I won't be doing any bodywork on it. The top is one year old and goes up and down okay. The tires have good tread but might be starting to crack in spots. They might last a year or so. The alloys are decent. It runs quiet. It's an old car that my daughter actually likes. It is eligible for historic tags (no insp or emissions). If these morons would have kept tags on it for a few more months (so that it could be test driven), cleaned it, not yanked the IP, threw a Walmart head unit in there and got the windows to at least slide it would be worth $2K easy. Maybe a half-days work. I guess I could do that half-days work and save $1K. But I have no vehicle to tow a dolly plus there's the charging issue. I'll offer $1K and see what he says. Fixin to go out of town till Thurs.