Pics of my 134a converted a/c system.....

Post by **Briano1234** » Sat Apr 23, 2005 12:49 pm

As it is geting close to the time when folks need a/c work....here is a running dialogue that I had with Thomas Covenant, on a different forum.

Thomas it was really rather easy. I took the receiver/dryer out,
poured out the oil in it then I took the compressor off and poured
the oil out of it.

Filled the compressor with the proper quantity of pag oil, Replaced
all the o-rings that I broke the connectors on with nitrite rings.

Replaced the Condensor (salvaged from a wrecking yard, at 15 bucks
easier to take.

Then (here is where the nay-sayers are going to balk.) Placed on
the convertor fittings and Placed one can of freon (r134a) in the
car.

Then I went to the high pressure side of the condensor (engine not
running yet) and loosed the fitting till freon rushed out, then
retightened. ( be carefull not to get frost bite ). I started the
car, on the suction side placed a o-ring sealer in it, and then
added a can or 134a. Turned on the a/c and it engaged the
compressor and sucked that can dry. I then topped it off with the
proper amount of r134a that it used for r12. Now the nay sayers
will tell you to draw vaccuum, but I am a cheap bastard ( cost
effective) and was taught shade tree a/c from a friend. Bleeding
the high pressure side fources the high side to have hi pressure,
the low suction side then has low pressure, and you have then purged
all the lines of air...cool huh? So that when you kick it on, it
will suck in that can of freon like it should.....

Buying the kits will get you half the way there, but on my eagle I
had to use a high pressure adapter on the low side (only fitting
that would work) then buy a manifold kit and it comes with an
adapter and a guage that connects to the High connector and then
allows you to place a can of Freon on it. The Two biggest problems
that I have seen happen with those kits, is that the compressor gets
too much oil. Draining the oil out of the Dryer, and the Compressor
and re-filling it with the proper amount of Pag oil is paramount to
getting a quiet and smooth running operation. I never buy the oil
charge, as I have filled the thing with the correct ammount. Dupont
makes a Yellow can of leak detector, that you can see with uv
light. Most of the Cars I converted were because of a leaking
compressor 2 holed condensors and a compressor that locked up.

now for the ECO-Nazi's You should have your freon r12 sucked out by
a quality shop...as it has been known to damage the O-Zone ( my Ass)
layer. Like cow Flatuance, Mt Penetobo, Mt St. Helens didn't
either, but I didn't see the Eco-Nazi's fining Mother Nature. But
if your system is devoid of r12 by a broken condensor, loose fitting
(wink wink)then there is no problem with inserting the r134a instead
of r12, just remember that you need to drain all the oil out you
can. Run the a/c at max and if the lines don't sweat after a few
minutes then you need more freon, the other side of the coin is that
when the line starts sweating, your system has enough freon to do
the job. But personally I prefer the weighted method.

You will get all kinds of nay sayers and God-who-knows-it-alls, but
these are the steps that I followed, and they worked for me.

What really pisses me off is that they have a direct replacement for
R12,and it is free of the flouro-carbons but you have to have an R12
license to buy it. Gee if you are replacing the condensor is there
any r-12 left?

Briano

ps. I have converted all my cars to 134a 4 of them, 1 89 honda
accord leaking compressor, had to remove radiator condensor bumper
to replace a right royal pain in the ass, equivilant to a power
steering rack replacement in a cabby, 1 92 dodge caravan with dual
air bad compressor one of the easier ones to replace, 1 89 eagle
premier broken condensor, and one 90 rabbit cabriolet broken
condensor.

And the pics to go with it.......with the pressures, oil charge, and pounds of freon/r12/r134a required.....

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1953080

BigDaddy90Cabby · Post by **BigDaddy90Cabby** » Sat Apr 23, 2005 1:03 pm

you did a complete change to 134a?? was it complete or partial? prices, and where did you get the stuff?

Post by **Briano1234** » Sat Apr 23, 2005 5:19 pm

Nothing Special, every thing that I converted it with was original at the Junk yard parts....

I bought a manifold set... for testing High/low pressure and then bringing gas in on a third side..

I used them little sombitching cans or r134a that you can buy everywhere.

The only thing I did do on the compressor changes, because they had to be replaced, was drain all the oil out of the Dryers that i could, and the compressors that I could.... then I filled them up with 134a PAG oil.

Nothing special the trick is knowing how to purge and not draw a vaccuum.....

Briano

BigDaddy90Cabby · Post by **BigDaddy90Cabby** » Sat Apr 23, 2005 5:57 pm

so you didnt replace dryer? just emptied it out? So you probably have like 90 - 97% change then. which is fine, wont hurt anything, but can damn near guarantee its not 100% at 134a.

Post by **Briano1234** » Sat Apr 23, 2005 6:30 pm

Nope, didn't change a thing, cept the oil....lol....and gas... Besides it gets plenty cold. However, today driving to the Cinema, my center vents stopped working,,,,,,I am hoping it is just a vaccuum leak..ARGHHHHHHHHHH well I checked the lines on the engine bay and they are all good. sooooo shit. Then pulling in the driveway the parking brake cable broke...ARRRRRRRRRG SHEEEEEIT. Well I spect I needed to replace the thing any way, and I need a new antenna...OH well buy Friday I can start working on it again....

BigDaddy90Cabby · Post by **BigDaddy90Cabby** » Sat Apr 23, 2005 7:40 pm

your center vents blow cold air?? thought those were just for heat, my center vents don't blow a damn thing!!!