Slowly Dying

Post electrical issues and questions here

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87KarmannCab
Posts: 6
Joined: Sun Sep 26, 2004 12:22 am
Do you own a Cabriolet?: Yes
Location: Downingtown, PA

Slowly Dying

Post by 87KarmannCab »

I just finished rebuilding the engine of my cab and now I am getting some weird electrical problems. The car starts with the voltmeter about right but then it slowly drains way into the red. Then it will not restart without a jump. The battery is good. Also, a weird symptom is that this problem can be avoided if I rev up to 3000 for a minute before I start driving. Yeah, yeah, I know.....get a new alternator. But this one was just replaced about 20,000 miles ago and it was working fine before the rebuild. Any ideas? :banghead:
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Calimus
Grand High PooBah
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Location: Cartersville, Ga

Post by Calimus »

well, before buying a new one, take the car to your local Autozone and they can test the charging system for free. At least they do down here in Ga, so I'm sure it's a nation wide policy. Check with a few other auto parts places and see if they do the same if you don't have an autozone close by.
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PDX Cabby
The Living Bentley Manual
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Post by PDX Cabby »

go back through and make sure all your grounds are good and tight
make sure you do the same with the main charge line from the alt. should run from the altenator to starter to (+)

anything happening with your alt/batt light on the cluster?
85 Cab - 1.9L 8v, g-grind, euro dual downs to TT race w/ Borla, VWMS fuel dizzy, 2H tranny with 5th gear swap, TT short shift, FK 60/40, 15" BBS RA, rear disks... begging for boost...
sixsracing
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Post by sixsracing »

Manufacture a ground from the alternator to the block. Use one of the four (4) studs that hold the two halves of the alternator together and run a wire from there to someplace on the block that tests good for a ground. Usually a one of the accessory mounts works well. If this doesn't do the trick, remove the brush pack/voltage regulator from the back of the alternator (two screws, black circle about the diameter of a quarter) and check the brushes for length and integrity. If they stick out less than 1/4" then replace brushes, if it smells burnt then replace assy.
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bmack
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Location: florida

Post by bmack »

Also make sure the little blue wire on the altenator is not damaged, this is the exciter circuit for the alt, and has to be in tact for it to charge. And on my 87, the grounds were really crap, I have had to add some, especially for the chassis to make all my little gremlinssss go away
This electronic fuel injection thing is just a fad
bubster007
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Location: Lawrenceville/Atlanta GA

Post by bubster007 »

Sounds like you got some good advice (for free). Let us know what progress you are making so we can learn something. I say it is a ground problem. I just removed every ground strap and cable (under the hood) the other evening and cleaned all connections. It never hurts and it doesn't take long. Also, you remarked that the alt' was fine. Maybe it was fine right up until it quit. Like an aircraft. it was fine, right up until impact. Cal' is right about Auto Zone and even if they don't have one near you, any shop or auto parts place should check an alternator for free.
92 Cabby Triple White...de Bubster
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