Creating your own Side Cables

[Briano1234]

Go to the Hardware store and buy the following:

8 foot 1/16 SS or Galvanized Steel Cable.
8 foot 1/16 ID UV resistant Vinyl or Silicone tubing.
4 1/16 ferrules.
or 8 foot vinyl coated 1/16 SS cable.
1 foot Flat Brass Chain you only need 4 links total, but you have spare if you mess up

Start by cutting the cable and the vinyl tubing in half. and cutting 2 links off the flat brass chain.

There are 2 styles of attachment points for the different frames that VW used. Knowing which ones you have determine the length of the Cable when complete.

The older Style attaches at the padding Bar. The length of these cables are "Loop to Loop" 40". The Spring attaches to the front of the frames padding bar. No Brass Chain is needed.


The Newer Style attaches to a Stud at the side of the front frame. The length of these cables are "Loop to Loop" 37 1/4" to no more than 37 1/2" or from loop to end of brass chain. Spring is at the rear.



Take a ferrule and thread it on to one side of the cable, then place the chain not the flat side on the cable loop the free end back to the other ferrules side, pull the long side tight, make sure that the chain is in the loop and that the bitter end of the chain is inside of the ferrule.



Then using a AMP tool or a pair of pliers compress the ferrule.



The cable should not have any strands of wire sticking out of the ferrule.



Now Get a board I happen to have a Carport rail.
Hammer a nail in to the board.
Using a Tape measure measure over 37 1/4 inches and drive another nail in to the board.




Take your one end that is finished and hook it over one of the nails.
To the other nail hook your plumbers chain over it and pull it out to lay flat.

Take your vinyl tube and measure it from the ferrule end of the finished end to just about 1/4 inch from the plumbers chain and cut it.



Insert the cable into the vinyl tube.


Place the ferrule on the cable, then thread the cable through the eye of the brass chain.


Put the free cable end back in to the ferrule and pull tight


Using a sharpie Mark the cable free end on both sides of the ferrule.


Take the brass chain off the nail and cut the free cable to the ferrule side of the mark.

Push the cable back to the mark that is on the eyelet side of the ferrule, there should be no bitter end or strands sticking out.
Then Crimp.



You should now have a cable that is 37 1/4 inch long with pivotable brass chain strain relief....



Be sure that you use a Nail Set, Center Punch or similar tool to widen the flat end of the brass so it can go over the
teat of the cable holder in front.




Enjoy


I have added this already to my replacing your top guide.

[Briano1234]

Major re-write new pics and tips.

[Bofubum]

I have questions about side cables:
I am having problems finding brass flat chain. Are there any other options? Why brass?

Also I don't see any use of the springs that are currently on my old cables, why not use the springs for added flex of the cable?

[Briano1234]

I have questions about side cables:
I am having problems finding brass flat chain. Are there any other options? Why brass?

Also I don't see any use of the springs that are currently on my old cables, why not use the springs for added flex of the cable?

Flat brass chain is avail at most hardware stores ie: true-value ace and the BORG.
It is used as it is a non-rusting strong material. It is small and works well.

If you look at the way they run the cable, with the Ferrule swedged at the back of the loop, the cable when the top is folded bends at that swedge point and doesn't really pivot on the frame mounting teat.

The brass chain allow the cable to pivot at the Teat, and the stress is off the cable at the swedge.

You still use the springs as they are at the back end of the cable at the rear frame.

This how to, was just to tell you how I do it, how I make it more dependable. I have replaced the top on my green car, and re-used my original design.
so they are over 8-9 years old with no sign of breakage. The hole purpose is that all the tops I have replaced, and all that I see in the "yards" were broken at the swedge... I wanted to stop it.

[bLac K aBriOleT89]

Well I woke the Cabby up from his winter nap, and been driving it all this week. I discovered that my drivers side cable has broke.

The top still in good shape and not needing replacing yet, is there a process to put a new side cable on without removing the top? Or without any major headaches? [GRINNING FACE WITH SMILING EYES]

[Briano1234]

Yes.
Reach around the rear frame and pull the old one out, and be careful not to drop the spring.
Make a new cable as I tell ya.
Open the top and use a wire coat hanger hooked and tie a piece of string to it about 5 foot long and crimp it small and tape it.
Feed it from the front to rear in the path that the old cable was in. Feed it in to the hole in the frame and then tie it to the new cable at the rear, feed the eyehole through the hole in the rear frame, and pull it until you can hook it on the front stud.

30 minutes start to margarita.

[bLac K aBriOleT89]

Cool! I knew you had a trick under your sleeve! I'll go to get the materials to build the cables today. I think I'll start with margarita

[Briano1234]

Major addition of older frame cables length and attachments.