More questions 81 cabby 1.7 gas 5mt

[roadtech]

well guys it was a disappointing weekend. I have no vac leaks, instruments working, fan switch tested and switching around 190 degrees new oil pressure switch. tried using a dwell on the injector/air box got it around 45, the problem was if I tried to lower the idle (with screw on the throttle body, it would stall, it continues to run around 11-12 hundred rpm. it sound good idling and would rev good. I took it for a spin ans right away the buzzer went off around 3500 and would stay on until the rpm dropped below 3000. Accelerating the engine started dropping cylinders and would not recover until idle. Then I would rev from idle and you could hear the missing cylinders. Kinda like flooding possibly, not sure. Not sure what the alarm is all about no indicator lights.

Any Thoughts

[Briano1234]

Check timing.
Do the CIS adjustments.
Then once the CIS is set I think the others will fall in line.

Have you checked your frame to battery for voltage drop?

[CalAltaDubber]

I agree with Brian, once the CIS is sorted out, most of those issues should go away.

The buzzer still bugs me, I'll have to do some reading before I say anything on that.

[roadtech]

A few question if I may.

Have you checked your frame to battery for voltage drop?

Would I measure voltage across battery (- to +) then measure negative (frame) to battery (+) (Is that what you mean?)

In the CIS instructions is states that the Idle should be around 900. I was not able to get it that low. It also mentioned a Idle boost valve. I don't think I have one. So would the first test be Idle, the 7mm screw on the throttle body can be turned by hand does not require a wrench. I can turn it to a point and the engine will stall. If I time the engine at 1200 rpm, would mean the vac advance would be involved ??

Can fuel pressure play a roll, I assumed (I know) that with good throttle response pressure was probably ok??

[Briano1234]

yes that is one way. you should have the same measurement.
If you don't then try to connect a battery jumper cable from frame (good frame connection) to the negative battery cable, and re-measure and see if it don't change.

Also start the car, and then with the battery light off, measure the voltage to frame at the Alternator, then at the battery, shouldn't be any loss there either, and should be 13.5-14v pos DC.

[roadtech]

Briano
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge rig? If yes would it be available for me to use? I will try and ring out the fuel system then tackle the timing and rich/lean settings.

[Briano1234]

I have one that I cluged together from a ac manifold gauge it isn't as exact as you would probably need it, as I use it only to verify that the FPR on my 90 was pass or fail. You can rent one cheaper...And at harbor freight they aren't to pricey.