Ok need your help naming this tune.

[Briano1234]

My baby daughter told me yesterday that her car made a whoop sounds as she drives it.

Today, I drove it and yep there was a do-whoop sound from the front.
put the car in the air, didn't thing to start it... I know...Stuart Pid of me

I changed out the drivers side cvJoint with a spare that I had, (known good) as that seemed to be where I thought the noise was coming from.
Didn't change.

The hub had no play in it and the brakes seemed good the rotor was spinning true. There is no real vibration to the wheel. I had the tires rotated and the do-whop is still there..

I suppose it could still be the bearings, but one of the tires had a seam across the tread, one of the other tires had what appeared to have a flat spot. The tires have less than 15K on them. and both of those tires are on the rear, and the noise is still in the front.

I am thinking about swapping wheels/tires off the blue bunny to see if the green bunny acts different.

It is rotational to the wheel as it changes or gets faster with the wheels going faster, and is missing when stopped. It doesn't stop when the brakes are applied and slowing down. But the rhythm decreases or increases with speed.

The wheel bearings were changed about 4 years ago.

[Calimus]

Check the calipers and make sure you don't have a pad dragging. Could even be a very slightly warped rotor for that matter. Not enough to throw balance off, but enough to reach out and touch the pad gently as it goes by.

Come to think of it (I'm really tired right now so forgive me), does the noise go away under braking at all?

[Briano1234]

No, if you apply the brakes the whoop is still there. Only getting it down to about 5mph will it lessen.
My baby son drove it and said that after swapping the tires from front to back, the noise is noticeably louder.
So I will be swapping the tires over from my car to hers today as a test for finality.

[Calimus]

Hrm, wonder if you might have a belt in the tire that's moved out of place. Then again, you did mention that there was a flat spot in one of the tires, that could attribute to the noise.

[Briano1234]

Well if I ever get the farging thing running..........
Go out to re-align the turn signals to the wheel.
put it all back together, and no idiot lights on key to run.
Some beatch.....................
I know more about the 10v stabilizer and the instrument cluster than I ever car to know. Changed out the 10V stabilizer 2 times, and no idiot lights. Take the key switch and wiggle it, and the idiot lights come on.
Car is charging... try it bout 10 times, good everything is ok.

Move on to the Second thing her Max a/c isn't pulling the recirc servo. Ok, take the vac distributor apart, and change out the rubber put it all back together and dam car is not giving idiot lights at run1...again..... DAM KEYSWITCH.... I can't jiggle it any more so I will have to drop the kneebar. Here is the kicker, I have all the correct voltages at the cluster, I have checked the continuity of all the cluster pins to respective inputs. Sooooooo frigging fed up.

So I got the wheel aligned, got the max a/c repaired, car runs starts but as there are no idiot lights I don't get exciter voltage so the alternator isn't putting out the proper voltage or charging.

farging key switch............... (at least that is what I got it down to I think.)

ps all 22 fuses are good. The car starts and runs, all light turn and headlight/tail work.......

So right now the wheels are the least of my worries.

[Calimus]

Man, who did you piss off enough for them to drop the Cabby Gremlin off in your driveway?

I know you'll get it sorted out, just hope it's before you put a bullet through the block or pull out your hair. GL sir.

[Briano1234]

Well, I did actually shave my head, my hair is less than 1/16 long......
So it will be the bullet in the block, but knowing my dam luck as of late it will ricochet and hit me square in the ass.

All of this:


Just to get to that little screw.


Ok so I tidied up some wiring issues with the radio, and fixed a few other things.
But taking he dash out was far easier to get to the knee bar bolts.

[CalAltaDubber]

check this out

?

[Briano1234]

check this out

?

Yep, I emailed wild william... as I am perplexed too.

[Calimus]

took care of abby & associated posts.

[Briano1234]

Bs'ing with RON, got me looking

1st, while we love our DVOMs and for good reason, they put very minimal loads on a circuit and so cannot tell us anything about a circuit's ability to carry current and do real work.
A bulb type test light (not LED types, those have other uses yet where they really shine, eww, pun....) can not only show us the presence of voltage (but certainly not how much as our DVOMs can) can indeed tell us if a circuit can carry current, up the the bulb's rating, commonly about 1 to 1 1/2 amps.
In series, bulb type test lights can also be used to limit current in a circuit, sometimes useful testing ABS solenoids for example. But we don't care about that right now.
---
So, get out your old school bulb type test light, test the tester before you test any circuits.
Connect that test light across T14-14 and T14-2 with the key on, hope it doesn't light.
If it doesn't light, there's a high resistance connection that's able to carry voltage to register on your DVOM, but it can't carry enough current to light the light.
Making sense so far?
If no light across T14-14 to T14-2, swap one test light lead to a tested good ground, the other lead to T14-14 to test the power circuit's ability to carry current
Now switch one test light lead to tested good power, the other to T14-2 to test the ground wiring.
Hope you've found a failure indicated, traced and fixed it.
---
If the harness tested good, move to the cluster.
The traces on the cluster are pretty much their own road map, I use a straight edge (usually a piece of paper) to help keep my place among parallel traces, maybe you'll even like a fine tipped Sharpie to 'make notes' along the way on the circuit foil.
While I've seen circuit trace breaks in random places all over the circuit foil, the most common fail point is right at the circuit fold at the plug, you know right where I mean, your pad fix addresses less severe issues right there.

For a failure right at the plug, I add a bypass, tap into the harness on one side, find space to solder on the circuit side, put a dis-connect in the middle of the bypass so it'll be serviceable later.
---
Other breaks on the circuit foil are usually repairable.
The plastic coating over the copper traces can be carefully scraped off for soldering, clean the copper thoroughly, thoroughly tin the ends of your 18 gauge wire prior to soldering, be quick, very quick with a low wattage iron, no more than 25 Watts.

---
Since you know either the power or ground buss are dead throughout, follow the traces closely with a magnifier and good light, if you still can't find the break(s), use the test light or DVOM.

The break(s) has to be near the connector, otherwise not everything would be dead.
---
The screw for Voltage Stabilizer mounting is an easy place to use an eyelet connector instead of soldering for a ground side repair, I'm pretty sure the center lead is also ground.
Two other leads remain on the foil for the stabilizer, find the one that connects to the fuel and temp gauges (stabilized, regulated voltage), solder to the other one (input voltage) for power side repairs.


I found a discrepancy between the DATA sheet and the Bentley
Yep, I fingered that too. That is why I am leaning to the cluster itself. What had me worried is that if you compare what the Bentley says to the Data Doc on the voltage stabilizer, then the Voltage stabilizers are bass ackwards.

http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/KA%2FKA7810E.pdf

But the Bentley shows that the input and output are opposite.



So it makes me want to go hmmmmmmm.

I asked my Daughter how long has this been going on? Oh Months...... :banghead::banghead:

Using a idiot light, and my trusty dvom.


Well, I have found the issue and let me tell you it was very very flaky.......

First, the Bentley is correct as to the voltage....
pin2 is ground
Pin3 is 12.5v after start 13.75v
Pin1 is 8V after start 9.9V

So some one some where is wrong.......... This time it don't look to be the Bentley.

What I found was that the pad at pin 14 would scrunch up when the connector was connected, and lay back flat if you took it off. Never seen one do that.

I took the cluster out and measured voltages with a meter and connector pin 14 to pin2 was 12V. Wiggle the connector it was still rock hard.

Replaced the connector, and measured pin 14, 12V. Measured Pin 3 of the voltage stabilizer nada.

When I took the shroud off I could see the pad move when I placed the connector on it.
When I took it off the connector would pull it back and then removing the bitter end would force it flat. Now granted, I have taken this cluster out a few times for bulbs, and gauges, but never saw the inkling of a pad problem. This was totally user induced, by aged mylar, and big mitts.

I bent it out of the way.


Cleaned it with Maf cleaner.
Then coated the mylar with superglue.


Replaced the pad into the Super glue.


Seeing one happen I cleaned the remainder of the edges and put Super Glue on them to keep them down.

Talk about weird... That is why it was barely making connection sometimes, and when I was wiggling the Keys I had them come on....occasionally.

I now have fixed almost every issue with her beastie save for the tires.. They go do-whoop down the road...Rotating the front to back they got noisier... I have it down to inner Tread Separation Going to swap the tires from cabby A to Cabby B to prove it. If I ever get hers back together.

[Briano1234]

Well the do-whop isn't the tires, not the CV''s as I have just changed both, Got side tracked for an electrical issue... Now with no load on the car and the wheels off there isn't any play in the front bearings.
I am getting stumped, or is it the fact that I changed the wheel bearings on it about 5 years ago? Maybe that is the cause, it happens over 20 MPH. The rotors and all look good no warping that I can see.

Alignment? Struts? don't know.....

[gull]

Something rubbing against a wheel or rotor? Do these cars have dust shields/backing plates? Can't remember right now.

[Briano1234]

Something rubbing against a wheel or rotor? Do these cars have dust shields/backing plates? Can't remember right now.

Yes, they have the inner fender, and a backing dust plate on the rotor, but there is good clearance on all the rotating parts, when I had it up in the air to change the cv-joint today passenger side. I started the car and ran it and didn't hear the noise. I had the direction bias tires replaced today.

It sure is reminiscent of a tire that is out of round. It starts @ 20mph, and stays there until you break to a stop. Braking has no effect on the noise. The wheel bearings were replaced about 3 years or so ago, and the struts will be replaced tomorrow, gotta love that LLW. After I swap out the struts I will go get it aligned.

When I took the tires off, I could feel no lateral play in the wheel bearings. Has me stumpified.

OH, and when I went to pop the hood, the hood release cable snapped.............It is coming in tomorrow too.

[Briano1234]

Decided that since the noise is rotational, with no power rolling down the road in neutral, I have decided since I have to re-do the struts, I will replace the hubs and bearings at the same time. The parts are all due to arrive next week.... 2-hubs, 2-bearings, 2 Strut mounts...The struts I will get AutoZone since they are LLW. So now I have to wait for the hood release cable to arrive.. Fun fun fun, any one know how to "pop" the hood with no cable?