Idle Control Valve...

[Metallicabby]

OK - I am taking many people's advice. I am going to dig into this cabby and fix a few things.

Anyone out there got any advice on replacing the Idle Control Valve? It is an expensive part to be sure! Is this something anyone with moderate knowledge has replaced - or is this for the experienced cabby doctor?

Thanks in advance...

[Briano1234]

Not if you get then at a bone yard..... And I can't help you too much...on the ICV...don't have any experience there for ya.

[tolusina]

......any advice on replacing the Idle Control Valve? ......

It's a very simple job. Two hose connections, one electrical connector and slide it out of it's rubber do-nut holder thingy.

I'm wondering why you want to replace it? Is your idle goofy?
With key on, engine off, can you feel it humming or buzzing with your hand on it? If so, it's getting a signal from the ECU and responding. That's just the first check.
Not trying to say ISVs never need replacing, but there are a host of other possible causes of poor idle issues that are more common.

How about some detailed symptoms? Anything else you've tested or replaced?

[Metallicabby]

I was talking to a friend of mine (mechanic) and was telling how the idle surges up high and then down low if you tap the accelerator while idling. It drives fine down the road, but when you get to a stop sign or put it in park there is an idle issue. It goes down so low that the preverbial oil light flashes and then up to high to put into gear safely. JUST BRIEFLY though and then it settles down.

He thought the ICV might be the culprit as the vaccuum lines appear to have been replaced (correctly) prior to my purchasing the car.
I will do the test you mentioned below

THANKS!

[Calimus]

Some times they can be gummed up. You can remove the ISV, get some carb cleaner and hose it out pretty good. There is a small door where one of the hoses connects, you'll need to hold it up and spray it in there pretty good. Drain it out the other hole, then let it dry out for a little while. Connect it back up and see if it help.

Oh, thats if it's at least humming/buzzing with the key in the on position. Engine doesn't have to be running.

[tolusina]

......the idle surges up high and then down low if you tap the accelerator while idling....

That symptom sounds like DigiFant II with a mis-adjusted or faulty idle switch on the throttle body, maybe a sticking accelerator cable.

DigiFant idle is also very temperature sensitive, the EFI's Coolant Temperature Senders are notorious failure items, inexpensive and easy to replace. The cooling system thermostat must be working to spec for the Coolant Temperature Sensor to report correct readings.

First check the ISV for buzzing, clean it as Calimus suggested, it's an easy and inexpensive place to start.

[Metallicabby]

Thanks to all - I'll check it out as described!