Ruff Running Engine

[Eagle]

My cabby has been sitting for three or four months without being started. I tried to start it today and I believe it was out of gas, would not start. I put about a gallon and a half of gas in it and it started but was running very ruff plus back firing and popping.

What could be the problem? Maybe water in the gas? Trash in the fuel line? What is the best way to check any of this?

When parked three or four months ago, was running fine. It is a 1992 all stock.

Thanks for any help.

[Briano1234]

Popping and backfiring are a sign that it is out of time.
First. Replace the Blue CTS sensor on the upper radiators head outlet flange.

Then

I would check the timing of it.

Statically.
Run the engine around so that the timing finger on the tranmission is at 0TDC
The Dimple on the cam on the back should be even with the valve cover tin (not the tie bar).
The front of the cam should be at 0TDC too.
Then remove the Distributor Cap, Rotor and Dust shield.
Replace the rotor, it should be at about 11:30 to 12:30, and that the hash on the Distributor housing Is in the middle of the
rotor. If it isn't then loosen the distributor lock bolt 13mm, and move the dist one way or the other.

If the Dist is frozen and won't move, then spray the base of it with PB-Blaster allow it to work for 20 minutes, then using a strap wrench on the base
you will need to twist it a wee bit one way then the other and it will eventually move.

Remove the Rotor, replace the dust shield rotor and cap.

Now that you have verified Statically that the timing is set. Start the car.
Allow it to warm up and cycle the fan.

Remove the connector from the blue CTS sensor, and reve the car above 3000 3 times.
Then keeping the idle at 2250, with a timing light you should be at 6dBTC. If not slightly adjust the distributor.

Once the Timing had been verified then we can see if it still barks.

[Eagle]

I think the problem is solved. I added more gas into the tank today and it is running fine now. I believe the problem was when the tank ran empty and I only added a gallon or so of gas, it was picking up all the trash in the bottom of the tank and not allowing the fuel to flow to the engine.

Brian, thanks for the tips on the timing as I probably need to do that soon also.

One of these days I may take the tank out and treat it with one of those coatings so the bottom won't rust and make trash.

Again, thanks

[Eagle]

Now the question-how much trouble is it to remove the fuel tank so is can be cleaned and coated?

Is there a better way to remove trash from the tank?

Thanks.

[Briano1234]

You have to remove or drop the rear axle.

on a scale of 1 to 10 it is a PITA.

You have to spray pb-blaster on all the bolts then take care not to over stress the brake lines.

[Eagle]

Wow, maybe I'll just pull the fuel pump and clean the screen good.

It's running great now. I filled it up with fuel and drove it 120 miles this weekend and I took it to be inspected for my tag renewal today and it passed like a champ.

I learned a good lesson, don't run out of gas and if you do, put more than a gallon in the tank to start it.

It will sure suck all the trash in the tank into your fuel pump and fuel lines.

Lesson learned..........

[gull]

Pulling the pump assembly will at least let you get a good look inside the tank to see how much trash there is. Mine was surprisingly clean.

Poor running when the tank is mostly empty is sometimes a sign that the in-tank fuel pump is going, or the hose that it attaches to is rotted out.

[Eagle]

I have noticed a humming or buzzing sound coming from the rear of the car lately. Is that the fuel pump going out???

[Briano1234]

Replace the in-tank pump as that is usually the one that goes bad first and takes out the main.

http://www.the152.com/modules.php?name= ... pump+lucky