Stalling?

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Briano1234
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Re: Stalling?

Post by Briano1234 »

ShyCabbyGirl wrote:Thank you. That website is really helpful. But the car doesn't really cut out... When the light flashes, it just dies... Lol.
That is the water temp over heat light, or of you have the sensor in the res jug that you are low on fluid.
It flashes when you are starting your car, that is the normal thing then will go out unless ca-ca occurs.

If it is flashing while you are driving then the car dies, then look at replacing the ignition switch (how many keys do you have on your key ring?) I have seen my son tell me the car dies... with 3 pounds of keys on the switch when he would drive the car and turn, the mass of keys would cause the switch to turn off.

I would then look at the Battery grounds from frame to battery and frame to engine.
I wouldn't look too long, I would just replace them.
Briano

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gull
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Re: Stalling?

Post by gull »

Briano's suggestion to look for an electrical problem is a good one. I think what you may be seeing is the light going back into "self test" mode because the power to it has been interrupted. If it is the ignition switch you might even be able to duplicate the problem by wiggling the key with the engine running.
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ShyCabbyGirl
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Re: Stalling?

Post by ShyCabbyGirl »

Those do sound like really good ideas. I looked at that website that was given to me and found a lot of interesting information... I'm also thinking about replacing the alternator, water pump, the belt, and the oxs. Probably the spark plugs, and wires. Just a few things here and there. It needs a little bit of work, but I'm sure with a little TLC she'll be running like a champ.
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gull
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Re: Stalling?

Post by gull »

ShyCabbyGirl wrote:Those do sound like really good ideas. I looked at that website that was given to me and found a lot of interesting information... I'm also thinking about replacing the alternator, water pump, the belt, and the oxs. Probably the spark plugs, and wires.
I wouldn't bother replacing the alternator and water pump unless you're having problems with them. Plugs, wires, and belts are all normal wear items, though.
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ShyCabbyGirl
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Re: Stalling?

Post by ShyCabbyGirl »

Well, here's something new... This evening, I let my car warm up before I went out side to go to my friends house.. When I got into my cabby, I turned on the heater to 3, the highest output of air, and the volts gauge dropped DRAMATICALLY, and the red light blinked and the car almost died. I do believe it was Briano that told me that it sounded like the belt the goes from the water pump to the alternator was slipping... Well, the belt is fine.. But now I'm wondering if the alternator is bad. Also, most of the time it only charges at 12V, when it should be at 13.5/14.0. Also... When I left her house, after warming up the car considerably... I got in and noticed that the temp gauge was higher then normal, and that after i started to drive, that the volt meter was lower than normal as well. Reading into the red. So I'm just going to replace it all, because it probably hasn't been done in a while... And hopefully all will go well! I FRICKEN LOVE MY CAR!! Haha. I just want her to run good... Also, I think I came up with a good name for her... Elenore. What do you think? :P
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Briano1234
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Re: Stalling?

Post by Briano1234 »

ShyCabbyGirl wrote:Thank you. That website is really helpful. But the car doesn't really cut out... When the light flashes, it just dies... Lol.
Replace your battery cables and the ignition switch for starters.
Briano

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gull
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Re: Stalling?

Post by gull »

ShyCabbyGirl wrote:But now I'm wondering if the alternator is bad. Also, most of the time it only charges at 12V, when it should be at 13.5/14.0. Also... When I left her house, after warming up the car considerably... I got in and noticed that the temp gauge was higher then normal, and that after i started to drive, that the volt meter was lower than normal as well. Reading into the red.
Sounds like you might have a bad alternator. I would really suggest checking the voltage at the battery terminals instead of relying on the dash gauge, though. The wiring harness to the dash has a lot of voltage drop, so you'll always see a lower voltage there than what the alternator is actually putting out. That said, mine rarely reads below 13V, so I suspect you're right about the alternator being bad.
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CalAltaDubber
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Re: Stalling?

Post by CalAltaDubber »

Here's a thought. The output of the alternator is controlled by the voltage regulator. It could be that the brushes on the regulator have worn out. they (the voltage regulator) are about $15 new at your local auto parts store.

To check, remove the voltage regulator from the alternator (it's held on by two small screws) and measure the brushes. If the brushes are any less than 5 mm they are beyond limits and replace the voltage regulator.

If it is the voltage regulator, that's a lot better than $150+ for a replacment. If not, It's always good to have a spare.
Phil

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gull
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Re: Stalling?

Post by gull »

Good catch, I forgot about that.

If the brushes are just on the verge of being too short it can also cause the alternator to charge intermittently. The classic symptom is the alternator suddenly starts charging when you tap it with a hammer.
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vw_nick
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Re: Stalling?

Post by vw_nick »

yes, and if it does need new brushes be sure to look into the alternator and check the condition of the slip rings. Last time I replaced brushes the slip rings were in rather poor shape and I did a "poor man resurfacing job" of them by starting the engine and using some fine grit sandpaper on the end of a flat head screwdriver to give them a quick cleaning.

And you really do need an actual volt meter to check charging system / battery voltages. The meter in the center console is close at best due to how it's wired to the vehicle's electrical system, and doesn't necessarily represent the actual battery voltage or alternator output. (ie, the gauge on both of my cabs would "twitch" when the blinker was turned on, however the actual voltage at the battery did not fluxuate)
Nick
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gull
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Re: Stalling?

Post by gull »

If the bearings and such are good but the slip rings need work, consider taking it to a local auto electric shop. They can rebuild most alternators and starters. Last time I went to one it was pretty reasonable; I think I paid $90 to have a GM/Delphi alternator rebuilt. Parts stores were telling me it would be $130 for a rebuilt one and they'd have to special order it.
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