Installing your Top pad

For the days when you don't want to be totally exposed. Get help here for the top.

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EyeSpencer
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Re: Installing your Top pad

Post by EyeSpencer » Thu Mar 29, 2018 2:43 pm

Hahahahaha. That is insane! No wonder you are a self taught genius. You had no other option!

But yeah, the top pad kit came with a black strap...? Not sure what that is for, as there were ZERO instructions with the pad kit.
And for those springs in the back corners, not sure of their purpose or how they're installed.

Thanks again!

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Briano1234
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Re: Installing your Top pad

Post by Briano1234 » Thu Mar 29, 2018 5:18 pm

The springs on the rear frame attach to the Side tension cables. that is what keeps tension on them

Image

The attach the spring and hook the spring to the finger and slightly bend it in so it holds, there is a vinly covering over the spring and you use the circle to attach the spring to the end loop of the tension cable.

You run the cable up and out the eyelet on the rear frame (Plastic grommet).
You Tie the open end on to the fishing string at the rear top, and pull it over to where it exits.

Depending on Early Frame or Late Frame you either hook it to the Teat on the side frame, or you attach it to the Padding bow.

See how to make your own side tension cables to the correct length.
http://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/show ... ion-cables

Then oil all your pivots.... on the frame.
http://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/show ... Oil-Points
Briano

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EyeSpencer
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Re: Installing your Top pad

Post by EyeSpencer » Wed Apr 04, 2018 6:49 pm

You're the man!

So I got my staple gun, SS staples, adhesive spray, riveter, padding strip and all the tools I believe I will need.
Image Image

********

I have now stapled the top pad cover to the back. (I also went back and made holes for the front teeth to go through)
Looking forward to completing the top pad - of course, I have more questions. Imagine that!!


1. The foam pad has an extra layer of "railing" on left/ride sides. Do these need to be pointing up to the sky, or face down towards the car for installation? (You may have answered that already, just double checking)
Image
Image

2. As far as "closing the pad" and wrapping the foam... Is that just folding both sides and gluing?

3. It looks like my padding cover is not long enough to reach where it needs to be riveted.... Can I connect it with a strap or anything...?
Image *Yes, I know I haven't drilled out the old rivet.

4. I seem to have some parts that I'm not sure of their purpose...
fig.(A) Only other thing to come with "Pad Kit" besides foam and fabric.... Image

fig.(B) I can read, and know these are the side cables.... Just no instruction on them at all, with provided "instructions" Image

fig.(C) This came with the "Top Vinyl KIT" as an added "tool kit." First off, it was shipped or sealed poorly and this is how I got it. Next, that "toolkit" was supposed to include staples... No staples... So feeling a bit ripped off with that little kit... Image

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Briano1234
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Re: Installing your Top pad

Post by Briano1234 » Thu Apr 05, 2018 8:10 am

1. The foam pad has an extra layer of "railing" on left/ride sides. Do these need to be pointing up to the sky, or face down towards the car for installation? (You may have answered that already, just double checking)

Yes the Foam padding is smooth side up, folded side down.

2. As far as "closing the pad" and wrapping the foam... Is that just folding both sides and gluing?

Sort of, You hook the padding of the material to the fingers after running the bar through it get it to lay flat then smack the fingers down and make it evenly wrap on the sides.

From your Pictures you need to remove some of the staples that are holding your headliner to the bar other wise you may staple over a staple. not every one but a few about every 3rd staple.

Pull the rear of the padding kit to the bar and Staple it about every 6 inches to hold the bottom to the bar.

Place your foam over the fingered area to smooth it., then use a piece of synthetic batting 6 inches wide, or a piece of the over lap that you cut to glue the foam to the
front frame. This holds it in place.

Now you over wrap the sides paying attention to keep the edges of the vinyl touching the foam but not puckering it up. wrap one side then the other and use a straight pin to hold the 2 wraps smoothly together. You will find that the overlap is about 2 feet…. Well you only need a foot, so cut the overlap so you have a foot.

Now you take the over lap and fold it back about 4 inches and spray glue to the side that is folded, and the side that is laying flat. let it cure about a minute or 3, then fold it over and smooth it.. WEAR GLOVES)

Hear is the glue that I use and it has never failed me.
https://www.rshughes.com/p/3M-Hi-Streng ... 05112838:s

3m 90 works well too.

Once the over lap is glued down the length then you are going to glue the front edge to the Frame header, then Place a couple of strips over the material to the frame

3. It looks like my padding cover is not long enough to reach where it needs to be riveted.... Can I connect it with a strap or anything…?

The various kits I have used also were to short, so I used thin strapping from a cargo strap that I had.

Make 2 vertical cuts in the vinyl about 3 inches apart about 5 inches from the rear edge of the vinyl.
Weave one half of the strapping through the 2 cuts. Then the outsides you pull taught not overly tight but taught to the rivet hole, punch a hole in the strapping and rivet it with a rivet and a backing washer.

fig.(B) I can read, and know these are the side cables.... Just no instruction on them at all, with provided "instructions" 

I gave you the link on the 2 types of cables lengths and how to make them of course there are no instructions in the kit because depending on the type of frame they are made to different lengths…. See my links. I went to great lengths on how to make them the correct length, so they fit correctly.


fig.(C) This came with the "Top Vinyl KIT" as an added "tool kit." First off, it was shipped or sealed poorly and this is how I got it. Next, that "toolkit" was supposed to include staples... No staples... So feeling a bit ripped off with that little kit... 

I use spray glue mentioned above, just be sure to cover the windshield and control the overspray. Use gloves and change them often. Works better and covers easier on the foam as well as the material.

One other thing I have noticed, Your Stapler has the safety on the front, that prevent you from pulling the trigger. I found that this was getting in my way in tight places, so I removed mine.
Briano

Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click.... :screwy:

EyeSpencer
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Re: Installing your Top pad

Post by EyeSpencer » Thu Apr 05, 2018 8:56 pm

First off, Briano, I cannot thank you enough for your help here. I know I'm not alone when I say that.

I believe I have completed the top pad installation!
Image
Image
Image
((** I HAVE ADDED STRONG DUCT TAPE TO THE FRONT AS WELL TO SECURE + GIVE EXTRA LEAK-PROOF-NESS... not pictured **))


From here on out, I will be looking at your write up: viewtopic.php?f=41&t=2224&hilit=installing+top

1. ONE thing before I move forward with the top/vinyl installation... Securing my top pad via the rivets on the back corners... Remember, pad kit came in a little short and cannot reach where it needs to be riveted... Image
***** I am thinking to do something like this...? Image

AFTER THAT, I should be ready to run through your previous post about the vinyl top and come up with 100 more questions!! haha

Again, thank you!

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Briano1234
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Re: Installing your Top pad

Post by Briano1234 » Fri Apr 06, 2018 5:53 am

3. It looks like my padding cover is not long enough to reach where it needs to be riveted.... Can I connect it with a strap or anything…?

The various kits I have used also were to short, so I used thin strapping from a cargo strap that I had.

Make 2 vertical cuts in the vinyl about 3 inches apart about 5 inches from the rear edge of the vinyl.
Weave one half of the strapping through the 2 cuts. Then the outsides you pull taught not overly tight but taught to the rivet hole, punch a hole in the strapping and rivet it with a rivet and a backing washer.

You don't have to sew the strap.
Image

you will feed the strap into the first slice (through the pad as well) from the edge under , then out the second from the rear and loop it to the back, then fold it over and rivet it, easier than staples and it will hold.

You need a few more Staples at the rear.....
Briano

Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click.... :screwy:

EyeSpencer
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Joined: Mon Jun 29, 2015 12:17 pm
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Re: Installing your Top pad

Post by EyeSpencer » Fri Apr 06, 2018 1:43 pm

By "through the pad" do you mean cut the skit and feed the strap through the FOAM pad as well as the cover?

EyeSpencer
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Re: Installing your Top pad

Post by EyeSpencer » Fri Apr 06, 2018 8:15 pm

Oh I'm stupid. You JUST answered that.

Thank you!

EyeSpencer
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Re: Installing your Top pad

Post by EyeSpencer » Tue Apr 17, 2018 1:11 pm

ALRIGHT. back at it.

Looking through your write-ups, Im only slightly confused about the order of things.

Top pad is on. Sealed. Glued. etc. Ready.

Looking on to the vinyl top.

1. Is the REAR cable step #1? After adjusting for alignment, cleaning out the old cable gutter...
2. I believe I have made my SIDE tension cables the right way, with what was provided me from MTMFG. *Strange note* The new springs are quite a bit shorter than the previous ones used. Also where the spring grabs the flap on the car and the cable, it doesn't loop over itself like the previous one.
Image
3. Looking at my top now, with pad underneath, I see "side straps?" form the vinyl on left and right sides, about middle of the top.... Are these to secure the pad to the top...? How so?
Image
4. One more thing with the side tension cables, I understand where it connects from the frame to the spring, from spring to cable, up through the hole in frame, AND where it connects towards the front... My question is where should that cable lie? There is some sort of guard/gutter above the windows, not sure if it lays on top of that or is supposed to be behind all that...
Image
Image
5. The "bead" on the rear of the vinyl, I see in your guide where that may need to be cut a certain way... By looking at mine, will I need to cut it?
Image
6. Final question is just a dummy's guide to the order of operations from here on out.

Things I know I need to do:
A. Attach rear cable (with the dumb little boot strap things)
B. Attach side cables (unsure about the route that cable takes under the wing...)
C. Attach front pocket of vinyl to the front frame (AND cut out spot for latches)
D. Adding the hardware back... (Front bar across and over the vinyl into front frame, side rails, etc.) *I'd assume this is last step

EyeSpencer
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Re: Installing your Top pad

Post by EyeSpencer » Tue Apr 17, 2018 4:10 pm

***UPDATE***

I have my side cables installed.

Image

*Used just what came in my kit. Used your measurements and compared to the old ones to get the right measurements for mine.

I'm curious if it'd be worth it to shrink wrap the little bit that shows?? Just to have it not be seen, and possible protect further against water or fraying... Like so:
Image

Let me know what you think!

Thanks again x1000

EyeSpencer
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Re: Installing your Top pad

Post by EyeSpencer » Tue Apr 17, 2018 4:36 pm

Sorry to keep buggin... Making small steps here, as new things come up.
While getting ready to attack the rear cable, I noticed the CENTER portion of my vinyl in the back is trimmed near the bead, yet the SIDES are not.
Image
Will this cause issues and needs to be trimmed down closer to the stitch?

Thanks!

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Briano1234
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Re: Installing your Top pad

Post by Briano1234 » Wed Apr 18, 2018 8:36 am

The sides aren't that much of an issue but the rear is.
You will need to make a relief cut where the cable goes from the outside to the inside. See my how to install your vinyl top.

Image

You will see what I mean.....

The side cables once pulled through and secures will not be seen, using the flat brass chain would of made them last longer as the bene of the cable is on the chain and noth right behind the ferrule. You don't need any heat shrink to hide the cable, it is only seen when the top is folded, once you route it through the rear side frame and attach the spring it will be hidden and hod the top tight to the frame.
Image

Rear attachment point, your spring will go there, then attach to the cable, this is an older style frame, that the spring is at the front.
Here is where the cable enters the front frame on an older style of fame, there is the same feed through point at the upper rear of your frame.Image


You should of cut the bitter end og the cable mark it, then cut it and let the bitter end into the swedge so there isn't any frayed wires poking out of the ferrule.

Image

The rear cable is attached first. Then you can mark for the rear window and cut it out so you have about 4-5 inches inside the frame of vinyl to pull and staple the top. This allows the top to get slack so you can set the front edge. I use clothes pins to hold the rear cable and bead in position as I tighten the cable, I find it quick and easy....

Image

Then attach the front and curl the lip, attach the rebar and 10 screws and end covers. Hardest part. The lip of the front has to curl up @ 90 degrees, so that as the top closes it lays flat against the "A" pillar seal.


Image

Image

The top strap comes down and is riveted to the frame it holds the side of the to the pad and keeps the padding in place.
It wraps the padding on the outside and is riveted to the frame, it pulls the top in to the frame as you fold it.
Image

Image

I ran out of rivets, and fastened it with wire-ties until I could run and get some more.
Image

Remember to Lube your Cable tray and top it allow the top to be easily moved left or right to re-center.
Using clamps to pre-form the corners makes it a lot easier to get it fed through.
Image

Some of the newer Cables have to be shimmed to get the proper tension, I usually super glue the shims to the feed-through as it is lots easier to install the cable and you don't have to worry about dropping one.
Image
Briano

Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click.... :screwy:

EyeSpencer
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Joined: Mon Jun 29, 2015 12:17 pm
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Re: Installing your Top pad

Post by EyeSpencer » Wed Apr 18, 2018 12:49 pm

Image

IN THIS IMAGE, are you cutting near the rear bead or a flat part of the vinyl itself?? Dont want to go poking the vinyl where I shouldn't.
I have the rear cable set in the center rear, the corner and remaining sides are where I'm getting tripped up.

The tension of the cable is already kinda hard to work with, yet I think doable...

Where the rear of the top ends, near the rear cable attachments, the material DOES have that metal rod inside the rubber bead... Im confused if I need to trim that piece or create the relief cut I keep seeing.

I know you probably think I'm a 6 year old with the amount of questions I've had and the length its taken me to do all this.

Again, all your help is deeply appreciated.

EyeSpencer
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Re: Installing your Top pad

Post by EyeSpencer » Wed Apr 18, 2018 12:58 pm

This is what I'm looking at....
Image
Image
Image
Image

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Briano1234
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Re: Installing your Top pad

Post by Briano1234 » Wed Apr 18, 2018 10:39 pm

Image
Briano

Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click.... :screwy:

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