Replacing the Torque Coverter seal on a 010

Have you done so much to the car today that it just doesn't fit into one section, or are you too damn lazy to split it all up? Either way, this is the section for you.

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Briano1234
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Replacing the Torque Coverter seal on a 010

Post by Briano1234 »

How to remove your 90ish 010 transmission torque converter

Get your Car prepared, and I install my engine support.

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Lay out the tools that you may need. Even a Surgeon will have his tools out prior to an operation.
This way you won’t be making trips to the tool chest.

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When I am working under the car I get everything I may need for working under the car, I hate that down and up…..

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Jack the car and support it with jack stands.

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Remove the Drivers tire.

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Disconnect and remove the battery and Air box.
Gratutious shot of the ground point of the car, you might want to remove and clean them

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Now on the drivers side use your 8mm Triple Square. And a ball peen hammer

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You will find the cv joint bolts easier to get to…

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Insert the 8mm TS into the head and seat it home with a few smacks of a hammer take out all 6
You can lock the cv joint by inserting a flat blade screwdriver in the rotor fin and let it lock against the
Caliper bracket. When you want to move to the next screw move the screw driver 6 slots to the left and
turn it till it hits the bracket.

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Tie that CV joint up and out of the way… otherwise the transmission will bind on it.

Under the CAR.


Remove the 2 17mm nuts holding the Skid plate on on the drivers side
there are two 17mm bolts holding the skid plate on on the front of the transmission the
Longer one is holding the oil dipstick bracket Now remove the Skid plate.

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Now remove the 3 cables.


Remove the 10mm bolt from the adjuster on the PRNDL12
gear selector cable.

Using 2 12mm open end wrenches loosen the 2 nuts then unscrew the bottom one off the PRNDL12 cable.
Pull the rubber cover off. Slide the cable out of the two rubber washers it is stiff and you don't want to kink it.
as you are pulling it out, of the bracket the two rubber washers flat washer and
busing will fall out., there is a keeper plate that is left on the tranny.


Remove the Clip off the Kickdown arm to throttle body cable and remove from the ball mount
Then using 2 12mm open end wrenches loosen the nuts off the mount and slide the cable
out the slot.

Remove the Accelerator cable from the bracket by loosening the 17mm nut on the bottom, and
then raise the cable off the mount, and out of the cut in the bracket. Now you can remove the
cable fromt he finger hook.

Remove the Starter

Remove the 2 starter brackets Soak the nuts on the heat shield with PB-Blaster….
3 10mm nuts one 10mm bolt and a 13mm on the block. Two nut on the starter, one on the upper
heat shield and one bolt to the left of the heat shield bottom

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Remove the wires from the starter there is one 13 mm Nut and a spad connector, take them off before you remove the
Starter from the car.

To remove the starter it takes a 13mm . You will need a short 6pt socket
and a wobble extension. to remove the middle starter bolt as it is holding
the heat shield…

You will need 2 or 3 6 inch extensions to remove the upper bolt…. The very top one is hidden…

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While you are down hear remove the rear and front lower transmission mount from the transmission
frame.
Get the CV joints 8mm triple square,be sure to use a hammer and fully seat the 8mm TS in to the head
and the lower engine block to tranny bolts.

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Using a 19mm 12 point, on the crank rotate it to where you can see the torque converter to flexplate bolts.
To the upper left of the back side of the engine. I use about 24 inches of extensions to get a straight shot on the
10mm 12pt bolts (3 of them) so that the breaker bar is almost even with the timing pulley…

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Now let’s get the upper side undone.

Using a 12 inch extension, remove the 13mm nut holding the ground wire then the 19 mm bolt

Notice that I have my safety’s in place a jacking tie-down. The turn buckle to the left is my engine support.

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Remove the Driver side transmission mount and bracket. It is a 15mm bolt through the upper mount, and 2 14mm
Nuts that you see, and a 17mm bolt that you have to jack the engine down a bit to get to…This gives you swinging room for
Dropping the engine


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Using wire ties run then from the upper opening of the bellhousing infront of the torque convertor
to the lower opening and then back to each other, This keeps the torque converter from bouncing out.

Jack the Transmission down and keep an eye on the safety. Once it is down you can pull it around
on a wheeled conveyance.

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Insert the 3 12point bolts back in to the pads on the torque converter.
Cut the wire ties holding the torque convertor

Carefully remove the torque converter off the seal, it may pull the pilot shaft out but that is ok.


Removing the Seal is straight from the Bentley Using a chisel or a sharpe Screw driver
tap the old seal off the pump housing.

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Clean the inside of the bell housing to remove the grime. Lightly oil the pump housing
with ATF Dextron 3....

Run a thin bead of Red Heat resistant RTV on the lip of the housing where the seal sits... I figure that it wouldn't hurt.

Now inserting the new seal start it on the pump housing, then using a 1 1/2 inch pvc pipe
connector tap it into position...

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Coat it liberally with ATF. I chose to replace my torque convertor ,
as I couldn't locate a bushing for it. The cost of the rebuilt from "Transstar" was 89 bucks and 12 buck core.
When looking at the torque converter one of the mounting pads should be stamped with the letter k on it.

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If you are replacing the TC you will need to "prefill it" with at least 1/2 to 3/4 quart of ATF.

To replace the TC in the housing I find that by inserting the pilot shaft in to the TC
it is far easier....

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If your two shafts look like this, then you need to correct it.
As the torque convertor will not go on correctly. The shaft can get out of position when you remove the torque convertor.

The yellow shaft is not in the position it should be. The easiest way I have found to get it in the home position is to lift the whole unit on end.
Pull the shaft out and then with the Torque convertor shaft in the middle re-insert it. It will go flush with the Green shaft...you may have to feel the gear mesh a but, but it will go on. If that shaft is out, it will not get the clearance you need for the torque convertor.



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Slowly insert the TC with shaft into the bellhousing, I leave the screws in to to help me hold it.

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You will have to rotate it a bit and you will feel 2 distinct engagements of the splines
then you may have to rotate it a tad more to seat the pilot shaft in to the home position.

If you didn't get it fully seated as in :

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do it again.... Once you get it fully on then you need to take a measurement

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The TC has to be 1 13/64ths from the edge of the bell housing to the flat of the converter.
As this distance is under the engine section of the Bentley, I wrote it down (converted, as who has a ruler with 64ths on it.)
in the transmission section of the Bentley: 1 3/16ths

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If you don't have that, reseat it again...

Once you have that measurement then wire tie or restrain the converter in the housing.
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Now jack it back in place. (I use ratcheting cargo straps to lift it, I find them easy to use and
allows me room to wiggle.

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If I need to reposition my cargo straps, or readjust I hold the starter wuth my floor jack
while I reposition.

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As you are lifting it now is when you want to reinstall the mounting bracket on the drivers side
so that you can get to that long bolt.

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WARNING

Be sure that as you are mating up the tranny to the Engine that your pads on the torque convertor
are not going to to be anywhere near the timing mark bar of the flex plate.

Prior to tightening the Bell housing to engine bolts Cut the wire tie that is holding the Torque converter to the
Bell housing and remove.

As soon as you get the fully tranny mated to the engine, then get all the upper block to bell housing bolts in and tight, before torqueing make sure you have remove the wire tie restraining the tc.
Replace all mounts before going any further.


When I am going to work under the car with a torque wrench I jot down the torques that I
will be needing on a scrap of paper... so I don't have to get out and look for them.

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When reinstalling the starter I remove the passenger tire for the addition space, and I
get the bottom bolt started, then place the upper bolt in and lock it down.
I coat all the bolts and nuts on the starter assembly with never-seize

I clean all cables and adjuster with sandpaper and grease lightly with axle grease.


When you readjust your 3 cables remember to do the throttle-kickdown arm by removing the
throttle body accel cable off the throttle body.

Then re-hook your accelerator cable over the bracket, then spin the nut up.If you didn't bother the
upper black knob, you should be able to reset it to the original position.

if not

Slide the nylon over the hook, and pull it up and down to make sure that the pedal is all the way to the
rest....then adjust all the play out of the cable so that the nylon is engaging but not moving the
kick down arm.

replace the cable on the throttle body.

now with the pedal fully mashed to the floor, press the kickdown arm against the stop,
Add or remove any slop.. if when pressing the pedal to the floor you dont ket the Kick down
arm to hit the stop, then you need to add more slop to the cable from the pedal.
after that adjustment is finished you will need to take any remaing slop out of the throttle body
cable via the adjuster on the valve cover.


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After you have connected the cables to the start and only after replace the air box, and the
battery and connect them.


To reassemble the PRNDL12 cable it slide the washer over the cable to the nut next one of the rubber washers, then feed the
assembly in the slot and through the keeper (don't kink the cable). next comes the bushing then rubber
washer is after the sloted bracket and before the keeper. Place the nut and rubber cover on and slide it to the keeper and tighten it.

To adjust the PRNDL12 need 2 people.
Turn the key swith on but do not start the car.
Pull the gear selector all the way to the drivers side of the car
Then with the cable on the back side of the bracket insert the keeper and the bolt on the cable and insert the
threaded part of the bolt to the front side of the bracket, then replace the washer and nut.

now tighten.....

Then have some one move the selector one step at a time and make sure that you hear a distinctive
click for each position from park so one click is reverse the second click is neutral
the third is drive, the forth is 2 and the fifth is 1. Then have them step it back to hear 5 more clicks.
if not readjust the cable...

After reattaching the tires and jacking the car down.


Before starting the car check the level of the atf fluid. Add atf in increments.
to the bottom mark....on the dip stick.

Start the car, and roll it in reverse...4 feet, then drive it forward 4 feet.
Turn the engine off. Check the level of ATF, Add ATF in little increment till you
get it to reach the bottom mark.

Repeat the above start/rev/drive and check level.

Once you have done this and no additional ATF is needed, take the car for a test spin.
3 miles, then re-check the fluid level and add as needed.



Enjoy
Briano

Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click.... :screwy:

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