Replacing the ignition switch

Have you done so much to the car today that it just doesn't fit into one section, or are you too damn lazy to split it all up? Either way, this is the section for you.

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Briano1234
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Replacing the ignition switch

Post by Briano1234 » Mon Apr 09, 2007 5:29 pm

I need to replace the ignition switch on the Green Cabby, (the electrical part) So what is the easy way to do it?
Briano

Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
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tolusina
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Iggy and the i-switches.....

Post by tolusina » Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:21 pm

Careful anti-theft design means the ignition switch flat will not come out of the column lock housing while the column lock housing is still on the column tube.

Remove the air bag, standard battery disconnect and wait interval applies. Make sure the steering is straight ahead and the steering wheel is centered, mark center on the top of the steering column shaft, remove the steering wheel. Centered/straight ahead is essential if you don't want to deal with clock spring issues afterward.

Remove the clock spring.
Remove the combination switch assembly.

If you have the double splined shaft as in the 1st pic, take off whatever retaining snap ring you find.
If you have the add on spline adapter as in the 2nd pic, figure out a puller, that bugger has to come off. A tie rod end/ball joint separator might work. I've seen posts on the 'tex that used Vise Grips and a two jaw puller, I used to air chisel them off and dress the divot afterwards. I've read that the genuine tool takes it off in seconds.

If the column lock housing has never been off before, expect a breakaway head pinch bolt on the lower left side of the column. Hammer/chisel it loose or drill, your choice, the head has a pilot hole to aid drilling.
Have an Allen head, 8 X 1.25 X 12 or 15 replacement bolt handy for re-assembly.

With the KEY IN AND COLUMN UNLOCKED (and don't forget during re-installation or you'll collapse the column shaft), pull the column lock housing off, you might need to gently persuade it.

One Phillips screw is all that holds the switch in place now.
Key in off position to line things up for re-installation.

Refitting is the reverse of removal.
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It's real simple to plug in a replacement switch for testing, operate it with a suitable screwdriver. The plug can just be accessed above the kneebar, only the lower column lock cover need to be removed.
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While the column lock housing is out, you just might want to drill the 1/8" hole at 10 mm X 12 mm as described in Bentley to facilitate future lock cylinder removal. If you don't find the Bentley instruction in the ignition or starting sections, look in steering.
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Should you be so inclined, the column lock is very easily removed from the housing. It's a tow bill for sure if that thing breaks and refuses to unlock for your Daughter or Wife.
With switch and key tumbler removed from the housing, point the column lock pin straight up, open your bench vise jaws wide enough to pass the square, peened, soft plug on the outside of the housing, opposite the lock pin. Set the housing on the vise, soft plug down, lock pin up, smack the pin a good one with a hammer and drift, lock pin and associated guts are now on the floor.
Put the soft plug back in if you like.
Re-insert the key tumbler and ignition switch, put it all back on the car.
Thieves won't know it's missing, you will though. And you'll be able to easily plug in a spare switch and drive the car next time keys get lost or otherwise misplaced.
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I forgot whatever else I can't remember.
_______________
I just remembered what I forgot, the pics!!

The easy spline version.
Image

The hard version, sorry no photo, adapter spline/bushing/thingymabob is item 7a.......
Image

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Briano1234
Whats that smell?
Posts: 4032
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 5:45 am
What year is your cabby?: 1992
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Location: Duluth, Ga
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Post by Briano1234 » Fri Apr 27, 2007 11:36 pm

That was a somebitch. Let me tell you the knee bar was never out of the car
nor was the dash, as all the bottom screw were in the knee bar.

Needless to say when I lowered the knee bar, I found the missing relays, both the transmission relays that should of been on the fuse box, in slot 15 from the Bentley, and 14 for the ETKA were attached to the kneebar that you couldn't see then...

I was amazed that they showed up at all.. :)

Tomorrow comes the reassembly, I figured that what the hell, might as well take care of the alarm system that some one ripped out.

The steering wheel was a piece of cake...............I wish they would of made room in the knee bar to allow the replacement of that damn switch.. :)
Briano

Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click.... :screwy:

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Briano1234
Whats that smell?
Posts: 4032
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 5:45 am
What year is your cabby?: 1992
Do you own a Cabriolet?: No
Location: Duluth, Ga
Contact:

Post by Briano1234 » Sat Apr 28, 2007 4:40 pm

I did find that the relay marked 92 p/n 191 927 181 is only on 90 and up Digifants with Automatic trannys it is on the back side of the knee bar.

To see how this relay start is different from the normal starter you have to turn to the Shift lock mechanism.

There you get to see the relay, the Bentley main diagrams don't refer to it in the main pages.

From the Start switch 1/2 of the relay is powering the ECU. That pick part of that solenoid energizes the other half of the relay that when you throw the key switch to the start, it energize and engages the starter, so if that half of the relay goes bad you can't start your car, but if you jump the starter it will start. It doesn't matter if you have the hot start fix as on the 90-93 cabby it uses the relay.

Here is the fix as I had half a flaky relay. it was intermittent, then went out I opened the relay and only saw the ECU side pick the other side didn't pick at all.

From the Ignition switch find the red/black wire coming out of the switch and cut it.

From the relay that is under the knee bar find the red and black wire and cut it.

Un-wind the red/black wire on the relay marked 92 (it is the only large red/black wire on it ) from the loom then route it over the steering column and splice it in to the red and black wire that goes back to the switch. This is only energized at the start switch position, and will allow the Key to then engage the hot start relay, and start your car.

Since you didn't bother the Digifart side of the relay it will run the car.

This only applies to Automatics 90-93, and you will have by-passed all the bs interlocks... So remember you can start the car in any gear.. so park it... or neutral it....

At Jim Ellis Vw the relay was 72.00, not in stock. BOO JE
At Dwight Harrison the relay was 59.00 not in stock.

Brian's fix 2 cuts and one yellow in-line splice...........
Briano

Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click.... :screwy:

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Briano1234
Whats that smell?
Posts: 4032
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 5:45 am
What year is your cabby?: 1992
Do you own a Cabriolet?: No
Location: Duluth, Ga
Contact:

Post by Briano1234 » Wed May 16, 2007 4:51 am

Just a follow up on the Brian-rigging it has been about 2 1/2 weeks since I rigged around the relay, and I heard the car start tonight as the number 3 daughter was visiting, and the starter had that beautiful over torquing run sound as if it was saying start.... More power... I also asked her if she had any other no-start issues as before and she said nope, it starts every time.
Briano

Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety.
You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click.... :screwy:

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Calimus
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Post by Calimus » Fri May 18, 2007 12:33 am

Excellent new sir. I've also fixed a starting issue this week. Witht he help of the zhizz-wheel and my air compressor, Cristines rocco is now the recipient of the starter from my rocco. Along with a clutch adjustment, I now proclaim her rocco suited for daily duty again.

A test drive to and from work today put my mind at ease that she should be running great for a good long while. No bucket of bolts sound when starting, no more crunchy gears and since I removed the battery for all this, a total re-programming of the sound systems setting have netted mechanical bliss with concert sound.

Now all I have to do is face the absolute disaster I've made of my rocco and all the cars will be in great shape.
12' A6 3.0T Prestige
05' Yamaha FJR1300
02' Honda VTX 1800C

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