Rear Shock Bolts

[Briano1234]

Lets face it, getting them bastiches out at times can be likened to trying to have a root canal on an Impacted wisdom tooth through your anus.

The bolt that holds the lower shock, will rust and infuse itself in to the rubber bushing, no amount of PB blaster will ever get that sucker to loose the Vulcan Death Grip on it. You can't pound it out, I even tried pressing that thing out with a 12" C-clamp and a socket... The rubber just keeps absorbing the shock.

Well in the days before the advent of me purchasing a Sawzall, I wrapped tape on one end of a hacksaw blade and cut that sucker out by hand....Sawzalls are nice....

The rubber of the mount will allow water in, over time, the bolt will grow rust with the rubber of the mount it will basically cold fuse the bolt into the rubber, the little rustcicles on the bolt will pierce the deteriorating Rubber So you have a little Chinese Finger Pull, the more you try to pull the tighter it holds, then the rubber will act as a shock damper for any and all dead blows to it.

Ya simply got to cut that sucker out inside the mount plates.



Heres the Trick to the reassembly that I used, then for the next 16 years that I owned the Diesel bunny I never had another frozen shock bolt.

Get a replacement bolt.

Apply never-sieze to the inside of the rubber shock mount.

Wrap the bolt with teflon tape, starting at the the head to the threads over lap the tape by half on the wraps the pulling and cutting of the tape on the threads will hold the tape in place.

Coat the tape with a thin coating of never-sieze. Insert the bolt, and tighten the nut.

In 2, 4, or 6 years the bolt will slide right on out, you will never have to cut it out again.

The teflon tape prevents the Rubber mount from adhearing to the bolt, the thin coat of never-sieze, will seal the edges of the tape. The rubber mount will adhear to the tape, but never be allowed to get to the bolt...


Trick 113..........

Others may have other ways to do it, but this has always worked for me.

[sixsracing]

Two words.......

HEAT WRENCH

Burn the rubber out with the torch, remove nut, drive bolt out with air chisel. I have not found a shock bolt that could refuse my charms yet.

[Calimus]

I got a better idea (mainly because the stench of burning rubber takes forever to get out of anything).

Air compressor + 10k RPM zizz-wheel + cutting disk. Takes the head right off the bolt in about 5 min or less.

Don't bother with a sawzall, trust me on that.

[sixsracing]

You can cut the head off the bolt if you want, the shaft is still frozen to the collar though.

[Calimus]

Guess maybe I should read everything rather then skim.

However, I know I had the same problem and there was something else I did do get passed it. If I remember, I'll post it up.

[sixsracing]

You can cut on each side of the bolt and take it out of it's holder. Usually takes a awhile and eats up a couple of sawzall blades.

[Calimus]

Thats what I did, I cut both sides, but with the zizz-wheel. I started with a sawzall, yea, 4 "metal" blades later and hardly a dent in the bolt, I broke out the real tools.

10-15min later, both sides were off and all I needed was two new bolts which I happened to have laying around that the time anyway. So it worked out perfect for me.

[gull]

The bolt's probably hardened, maybe harder than the Sawzall blades. The neat thing about abrasive cutting discs is the abrasive is far harder than any metal. I used one to cut the heads off some old cylinder head bolts once (I was making locator pins) and it zipped right through them.