Have you done so much to the car today that it just doesn't fit into one section, or are you too damn lazy to split it all up? Either way, this is the section for you.
to seat the rear cable i used a shot filled lump hammer and hit it alot unfortunatly i missed and dented the rear wing, that was the beer again
so the biggest thing i learned about top replacement is i drink too much!!
Nice job! It's not really that bad to do as you've just learned! The biggest tip I can offer is when seating the rear cable, use LOTS of Silicone Lubricant spray and I used 1/2 of a 2-piece clothespin as a drift. It seated the cable as far in as it could go. Spring was tossed aside of course!
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Her car, my tools. It's all about sharing! ///Ocean State Dubs
'87 red/white Cabby
'92 Triple white Cabby(an 8V decked and overbored nightmare. 303 Cam baybee!)
to seat the rear cable i used a shot filled lump hammer and hit it alot unfortunatly i missed and dented the rear wing, that was the beer again
so the biggest thing i learned about top replacement is i drink too much!!
Nice job! It's not really that bad to do as you've just learned! The biggest tip I can offer is when seating the rear cable, use LOTS of Silicone Lubricant spray and I used 1/2 of a 2-piece clothespin as a drift. It seated the cable as far in as it could go. Spring was tossed aside of course!
Her car, my tools. It's all about sharing! ///Ocean State Dubs
'87 red/white Cabby
'92 Triple white Cabby(an 8V decked and overbored nightmare. 303 Cam baybee!)
I have a pop-rivet gun I bought a few years ago for doing quick-n-ugly rust hole patches, so the rivets don't worry me too much. I think it cost me less than $20. I need to get an electric staple gun, though. Is there a particular reason to use an electric one instead of the spring type?
Electric vrs hand.... gee with 300 bazillion staples holding the edges of the rear window.... How strong is your hand...
Briano
Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety. You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click....
gull wrote:.... Is there a particular reason to use an electric one instead
of the spring type?
Because the spring types just are not up to the job, you need an electric. I became far more informed about stapler technology than I ever wanted to be when I did my top. Tried several types of spring staplers, none came close. Was tempted to try the hammer type, decided best not to subject the top mechanism to that sort of impact, repeatedly. As Brian noted.....
Briano1234 wrote:.... gee with 300 bazillion staples....
I counted those staples, Brian's figure is EXACT!! There are lots and lots of them, lots more than that too.
If you are changing the headliner, double the number of staples.
I did my first top with a hand held Arrow t-50 stapler... it is a royal pain as you needed 3 hands, one to pull the handle one to hold it tight to the frame and one to hold the material.
Electric with a varible strike (can shoot small brads in a 2x4 ) shoudl work.
The Second one I had my electric it worked a hole lot easier, and I didn't need the third hand....
Briano
Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety. You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click....
i had a freind sit in the boot holding on to the material while i stapled it , he was able to adjust the tension as it needed it , i used a hand stapler but then sunk the staples with a hammer and punch.
i wish id thought about the silicone spray, ive got some in my shed, left over after a job i had building drop slides, best job i ever had...
There had to be an easier way to seat the rear cable and I found it.
Fit the top to the front lip and square it to the frame.
Half raise the top frame and lock into position with a broom stick and a couple large Vice grips....
Drape the top and square it again.
For the rear top cable Here are a couple of tricks..
Mark the Center of the rear of the top between the 2 seams.
Mark the Center of the cable.
Mark the lip of your cable tray centered between the hinges.
Here's the trick.
Trim all the excess of the material off the back of the top, ie: where the lip is made so that you are only having 1 thickness of material rather than two doubled.
Slide the boot tabs over the cable.
Center the top the marks will get you in the ball park get it so that the seams are equal on the corners ie: bout a 1/4 of an inch from the edges of the trunk.
Now loosely fasten the cables on both ends one spin of the nut, so that you can feel some threads.
Don't worry about the corners yet.
Start the cable in with the clothespin hammer method, once the roll is tight to each other.
Watch here it comes
Take a pair of small 6 inch vice grips open them wide.... (those little jacking clamps with the rubber jaws would be better, but I don't have any sooo I improvised.
Take a terrycloth towel and Double it over....
On one side of the center about 6 inches squeeze the cable and top in to the cable tray if you have those clamps that are spring loaded you probably won't even need the hammer and clothes pins.
Place the towel doubled over then clamp the vice grips over the towel and lock in to place over the top rear lip of the cable tray and the rolled edge of your top to assist your hands. You will be suprised at the ability to push the cable in with the vice grips or clamps alone... Ths trick is worth 50 bucks send all your pay pal donations to Briano.....
For the corners space out your boot tabs and I started the boot take by directly driving the boot tab cable and top into place with a round punch the lever action clamps would be so nice here.
The other side I forced the cable in the tray by using two clothes pins to lever it in place, I adjusted the corner and drove it home with the 1/2 inch round punch.
Now working one side you can move the vice grips to assist you in getting the side tight, and holding it there while you tighten the cable....
Hell I am even thinking about udoing the whole shooting match and go buying clamps to take pic's.... Naw what am I stupid or something the cable is in after only 1 hour of struggle.
With the top in the half raised position there is enough slack to allow the top to drap over the cable tray to place the clamp on.
Side thought you can split a piece of radiator hose and place over both jaws of the vice grips.
Better tops through drugs and pain, and being by my self.
Briano
Briano
Yes as matter of fact, I have the Luck o'the Irish...everything I touch turns to fertilizer of the bovine variety. You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make him Click....
