Stupid question I think

Change overs from US spec to Euro's or slightly newer conversions. Changes to the rear lighting or interior can be talked about here as well.

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J-Dub
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Stupid question I think

Post by J-Dub » Tue Oct 04, 2005 9:13 pm

I bought new headlights a couple months back H4's to be exact. One of them burnt out already so I'm wondering if there are different H4 bulbs or if they are all the same? The lights didn't come with any specs of the bulbs so I'm not sure what they are right now. I just don't want to get the wron ones and possibly fry my wiring.

TIA

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Re: Stupid question I think

Post by Briano1234 » Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:57 pm

J-Dub wrote:I bought new headlights a couple months back H4's to be exact. One of them burnt out already so I'm wondering if there are different H4 bulbs or if they are all the same? The lights didn't come with any specs of the bulbs so I'm not sure what they are right now. I just don't want to get the wron ones and possibly fry my wiring.

TIA
The ONLY STUPID QUESTION IS:::::: the one you didn't ask....
If it really really lame we will always give you a lame answer or a smart aZZed one. Like I didn't know the car didn't have any brakes when I bought it....should I have asked? OR does this parachute open on impact? or before?

Well yes there are different kinds of h4 bulbs.....silverstar cool blue and other manufacturers. Look on the base of the bulb to see if there is a number that you can cross reference to...other wise just find an h4 that you like and replace both that way you get the same illumination from the pair. I usually don't like changeing both bulbs at once because they tend to go out at the same time too, I would rather be driving with one headlight than none headlights.
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Post by CalAltaDubber » Wed Oct 05, 2005 9:11 am

J Dub the reason there are fuses in the car is to protect the wiring in the case of excessive electrical current.

That said, go to the place where you bought the lights in the first place and check out the package for a replacment bulb, that should give you an idea as to the specs for that bulb.

You can either upgrade ou use the same, no big deal.

I like Brian's suggestion to replace both bulbs, but I would keep the good (old) one as a spare in the glove box.

It's not a good idea to drive around your area with a burned out headlight, the Toronto Cops have no sense of haha and will write you a ticket.
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Post by Calimus » Wed Oct 05, 2005 10:07 am

Also, did you relay the wiring to your light before adding the H4's. If not, you need to do it. The stock wiring can handle the load for a while, but not forever and it's been known to fail and cause fires.

I have a diagram for wiring h4's into a scirocco, but it's pretty much the same on a cabby and shouldn't be difficult to figure out.

Aside from the wiring issue, for bulbs, stick with Silverstars' (a bit $$ at $20 per bulb) or Sylvania/similair brand. Don't got with the "blue" tinted bulbs as they don't really provide very good light at all. Wattage should be 55/65, 55 low beam, 65 high beam. If you are relayed, you could step up to 80/100's, but unless you live in the boonies and have to deal with backroads and deer, I wouldn't recomend it. Lot of police officers can tell the lights are very bright and will pull ya for it.
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Post by J-Dub » Wed Oct 05, 2005 11:56 am

Thanks for all your help everyone.
CalAltaDubber I know what the fuses are for but I know that the wiring in the cabbies is not the greatest and I don't want to do anything thats going to put my baby into any danger.

Calimus: Thank you for getting me the wattage thats what I was looking for. Yes I did wire in a relay but if you still have the diagram I would like to see it to make sure I have done evrything right.

P.S. whats wierd is the cops arouund here used to be real jerks but lately they have been getting better and have been quite mod friendly

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Post by Briano1234 » Wed Oct 05, 2005 1:34 pm

Briano

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Post by CalAltaDubber » Wed Oct 05, 2005 2:50 pm

A relay is nothing more than an elictrical switch.

One of the purposes of relays (and the reason to do it here) is to use a low power circuit to control a high power circuit. Using a 60W bulb will require 5 Amps of current (at 12 V) which is approaching the design limit of the headlamp cct.

By adding relays, the existing cct. becomes a control cct. and the lights are powered directly form the battery, hense they will also need fuses in the cct. as well.

What size fuse?

Well that depends on several variables, this can be easily calculated using Ohm's Law regarding Power [Power (measured in WATTS) devided by Voltage (Measured in VOLTS) is equal to Current (measured in AMPS)].

Using the example I have above of a single 60 W bulb devided by 12 V equals 5 A.

Since automotive systems usually operate around 13 to 14 V, the current would be slightly less and a 5 A fuse would work just fine.
Phil

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Post by J-Dub » Wed Oct 05, 2005 10:03 pm

Thank you Briano and CalAlta for your replies the links and responses helped alot now I have the peace of mind that everything was hooked up correctly in the first place.

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Post by CalAltaDubber » Thu Oct 06, 2005 9:02 am

Cool. 8)
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Post by Davis_84 » Tue Jan 10, 2006 10:39 am

Another related question... I got the wiring diagram from the other post, but I have never done any automotivcve wiring before (consider myself reasonably intelligent and mechanically apt with a little experience), is there a complete how to for converting from stock single rounds to quad H4 rounds anywhere....?

Things like, what gauge wiring, any specific type of relays, where to mount the relays, how to use ignition to avoid running lights without car running - I'm guessing that two or four H4's running on battery would kill it pretty quick.

For example, the inside 5" rounds on my '90 GTI were driving lights, that were activated by High beams, as my outside rounds were in effect single rounds with dual filament bulbs for both hi and low beam... I sort of like that setup - any of the quad H4 conversions available have this sort of set up or would I have to buy a dual H4 set up, grill and 5" H4s all separately.....

another simple question - do I have to replace my rad support to go from stock single rounds to quad rounds on an 84 (early model - full size spare)

throw all info you have at me.

thanks in advance.
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Post by CalAltaDubber » Tue Jan 10, 2006 2:38 pm

No that's not a dumb question. But you have actually asked, what I thin, are several good questions.

Having been in the Avionics/Electronics business for over 20 years, I think that I do know a thing or two about wiring.

Your concerns about wire gauge and relays are well founded. and as you have correctly summised the driver behind it all (in this case) are the lights.

Check your PMs and give me a call. I can get a much better idea on exactly what you are trying to accomplish and can probably better provide you some support.
Phil

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Post by Briano1234 » Tue Jan 10, 2006 4:30 pm

CalAltaDubber wrote:No that's not a dumb question. But you have actually asked, what I thin, are several good questions.

Having been in the Avionics/Electronics business for over 20 years, I think that I do know a thing or two about wiring.

Your concerns about wire gauge and relays are well founded. and as you have correctly summised the driver behind it all (in this case) are the lights.

Check your PMs and give me a call. I can get a much better idea on exactly what you are trying to accomplish and can probably better provide you some support.

WATTA GUY
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Post by kuklaki » Tue Jan 10, 2006 5:32 pm

Briano1234 wrote:
CalAltaDubber wrote:No that's not a dumb question. But you have actually asked, what I thin, are several good questions.

Having been in the Avionics/Electronics business for over 20 years, I think that I do know a thing or two about wiring.

Your concerns about wire gauge and relays are well founded. and as you have correctly summised the driver behind it all (in this case) are the lights.

Check your PMs and give me a call. I can get a much better idea on exactly what you are trying to accomplish and can probably better provide you some support.

WATTA GUY
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