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Is it ok to replace all the wiring with 14 gauge?

ETA - after hearing from others, it sounds like 14 isn't the way to go - may be too large for the fuse pins. So it'll just be 16 or 18.

I want to rewire the car (slow process, but I'm going to try). Is there any issue with going with 14 gauge wire (except those that require larger, of course)? I'm going to attempt doing all the grounds first and thought I'd replace the original with 14 instead of (what I think) is 16 or 18. (I do NO...

So if the horns have power all the time, should they be working even when the key isn't in the ignition (like the radio)? Right now, my horns definitely do not work when the key is not in. This is with either the old relay or the new one. (They are both new, and connecting directly to the battery br...

OK, I've got the turn signals sorted. I took the wheel back off and it looks like when I put the new switch in, it pushed the pin recepticle back a bit. With the new switch seated properly, the new relay, incandescents front/LED rear, the signals work properly. Still need to get the resistance kits ...

I've heard anecdotally that maybe I tightened the steering wheel nut too much. Ever heard of this?

Probably won't have time to do much today, but tomorrow I'll start going through the grounds (which I'd like to replace with new wire/connectors anyway).

Put the old switch in, incandescents are in. Replaced the fuse and put the original relay back in - no turn signals at all. Hazards still work well. It seems to me (as a non-electrician) that it might point to wiper switch or something in the steering column. Maybe when I put the new turn signal swi...

The dash light that blinks with the signals? Blinks appropriately for hazards. Does not light up at all for turn signals (and don't hear the familiar "click click click" as they are running).

I also just tried the old relay. Same issue - no turn signals, but hazards are fine.

Well, apparently I screwed something up. Replaced the stalk and now the turn signals don't work at all. Hazards are good, so clearly it must be something in the steering column. First thought maybe I blew a fuse, but I replaced it and they still aren't working. Also re-seated the relay. And no horn ...

I thought about using a sticky tape solution. But I've noticed that the cap that originally was there also helps a little bit with holding it against the bumper. That's the main reason I was hoping I could find it. Part #29 would likely be easy to replace - any bolt that has the threading would do.

I'll see about getting resistance kits tomorrow. When I first tried it (without the headlights on), I was so happy to see the voltmeter gauge not jump up and down like normal with the turn signals. At the moment, I put the incandescents back in on the front and everything is good. (The relay I got w...

So I replaced the turn signals with LED on my 81 convertible. I did the relay swap to an LED capable relay from SuperBrightLEDs. At this point, the rears work exactly as expected. The fronts, however, do not. When the main lights are turned off, the hazards and individual turn signals work perfect. ...

Anyone know the part number for #30 in this pic? I am missing 3 of them and need to replace the 4th. (I have the part number for #29)

Well, it's not the prettiest, but I got the broken bracket welded back together:

Interestingly, while mine is a 1981, it was built in August 1980 and has the reverse light switch that only has a two blade connection. (Part #020-945-415A). But according to Cabby-Info, that's for 1988 and later models. (A typo on the site?)

"To test the reverse light switch: Disconnect the electrical plug, jump the black and black/blue wire terminals, turn the ignition switch to the battery-on position. If the lights turn on, the switch is faulty." I tried that and got no light. But then when I reconnected the wires and start...